Classic Records Clear Vinyl and Demagnetisers
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My unit is labeled MAGNERASER; by Momag, Flemington, New Jersey,
and it takes 1.5A at 220V. Yes, thats quite some power, but it stems
from the area when you used to erase 1/2'' computer tapes with it.
It looks similar to a cased ring transformer (in terms of magnetic
field, this is the opposite, of course) with a handle and push button.
You are not supposed to let it run for more than 2 minutes without
pause.
I use it for perhaps 10 to 15 sec before playing a record. So this is
no fuss at all.
Cheers, Klaus
and it takes 1.5A at 220V. Yes, thats quite some power, but it stems
from the area when you used to erase 1/2'' computer tapes with it.
It looks similar to a cased ring transformer (in terms of magnetic
field, this is the opposite, of course) with a handle and push button.
You are not supposed to let it run for more than 2 minutes without
pause.
I use it for perhaps 10 to 15 sec before playing a record. So this is
no fuss at all.
Cheers, Klaus
European style demag/degausser
Accidentally, I came across a degausser (demagnetizer) using
240 V: Verity VS250. I found a considerable price range: 114 USD (US-V),
175 GBP, 219 Euro (this last at Estemac, Hamburg, Germany).
I am using mine with every record, and with increasing enthusiasm.
It clears up the music radikally. I fear, its effect is most obvious once you
have the Radikal installed as really so much more music and detail
is transferred then. But then it doubles the fun. And I agree with ThomasOK,
it must be included in the real bargains.
If someone is really interested AND owns a LinnDS: I can offer to
copy a few recordings on a HDD or UBS stick if you send it to me
(ignoring reservations about the method/ 8 GB mandatory/ 192 kHz).
So much for today,
Klaus
240 V: Verity VS250. I found a considerable price range: 114 USD (US-V),
175 GBP, 219 Euro (this last at Estemac, Hamburg, Germany).
I am using mine with every record, and with increasing enthusiasm.
It clears up the music radikally. I fear, its effect is most obvious once you
have the Radikal installed as really so much more music and detail
is transferred then. But then it doubles the fun. And I agree with ThomasOK,
it must be included in the real bargains.
If someone is really interested AND owns a LinnDS: I can offer to
copy a few recordings on a HDD or UBS stick if you send it to me
(ignoring reservations about the method/ 8 GB mandatory/ 192 kHz).
So much for today,
Klaus
It seems to me it would work as well and be less expensive just to get one of the Radio Shack units and one of these converters. I don't have the Radio Shack unit with me but from some photos it looks like it draws somewhere around 6 amps at 120 volts.
There are five or six of the Radio Shack units on eBay right now and it looks like you would have to work to pay more than around $40 for one. The converts below appear to be in the same range.
Certainly not as clean as having one that just plugs directly in but if this type of device is more rare or more expensive in Europe it seems like an option worth checking out.
http://www.220-electronics.com/Transfor ... ytrans.htm
http://cgi.ebay.com/110-120-TO-220-240- ... 450wt_1167
There are five or six of the Radio Shack units on eBay right now and it looks like you would have to work to pay more than around $40 for one. The converts below appear to be in the same range.
Certainly not as clean as having one that just plugs directly in but if this type of device is more rare or more expensive in Europe it seems like an option worth checking out.
http://www.220-electronics.com/Transfor ... ytrans.htm
http://cgi.ebay.com/110-120-TO-220-240- ... 450wt_1167
THe ebay item handles 500 watts, that's not enough. 6A at 120 V is (max) 720W and if you want to be safe I'd choose a 1kW converter. Which is 45$ plus shipping in the first link.
I used to run a small toaster oven for 120V on a converter that was rated to barely handling the power it consumed. It seems the converter was a bit optimistically specified, because after a while, it blew up.
I'm still thinking about connecting two Radio Shack's in series. Imagine the demag power in my hands, yummie! :)
Seriously, I intend to try this soon. Give me a couple of more weeks to shop around and I'll share my impression of the effects.
I used to run a small toaster oven for 120V on a converter that was rated to barely handling the power it consumed. It seems the converter was a bit optimistically specified, because after a while, it blew up.
I'm still thinking about connecting two Radio Shack's in series. Imagine the demag power in my hands, yummie! :)
Seriously, I intend to try this soon. Give me a couple of more weeks to shop around and I'll share my impression of the effects.
Hi, here's another finding. Obviously a European source.....
http://svalanderaudio.com/shoppen/demageng.php#demag
If you experience the effect, you won't complain about costs. Nice
that these items are not priced on the basis of sound improvment.
Ciao, Klaus
http://svalanderaudio.com/shoppen/demageng.php#demag
If you experience the effect, you won't complain about costs. Nice
that these items are not priced on the basis of sound improvment.
Ciao, Klaus
I realize some of the above should be taken as jest, but is really needed to demagnetize both sides of an LP. In normal demag situations the 1st side would not be considered demagnetized if there was residual magnetism on side 2.
So do you find it worthwhile to demag each side prior to playing?
Has anyone determined what effect is caused from magnetism and what is from static?
Does the demag also remove static?
Do the LPs that are played one side more often than the other side build more magnetism? Seems to me that equal play should neutralize the buildup of magnetic fields.
I don't need all the answers, just what's it take for an LP to sound it's best.
From my experience my Loricraft PRC-3 does what it takes to sound decisively better.
So do you find it worthwhile to demag each side prior to playing?
Has anyone determined what effect is caused from magnetism and what is from static?
Does the demag also remove static?
Do the LPs that are played one side more often than the other side build more magnetism? Seems to me that equal play should neutralize the buildup of magnetic fields.
I don't need all the answers, just what's it take for an LP to sound it's best.
From my experience my Loricraft PRC-3 does what it takes to sound decisively better.
Sorry if I caused any confusion, the comment about demagnetizing both sides at once was purely in jest. :)SaltyDog wrote:I realize some of the above should be taken as jest, but is really needed to demagnetize both sides of an LP. In normal demag situations the 1st side would not be considered demagnetized if there was residual magnetism on side 2.
So do you find it worthwhile to demag each side prior to playing?
Has anyone determined what effect is caused from magnetism and what is from static?
Does the demag also remove static?
Do the LPs that are played one side more often than the other side build more magnetism? Seems to me that equal play should neutralize the buildup of magnetic fields.
I don't need all the answers, just what's it take for an LP to sound it's best.
From my experience my Loricraft PRC-3 does what it takes to sound decisively better.
Any demagnetizer that has enough power to work will demagnetize the full thickness of the record. As to your other questions, I have not been going to the trouble of demagnetizing each side of the record. While I am sure that the cartridge will re-magnetize a record over time I do not notice any significant immediate re-magnetization. I have done A/B comparisons of equipment using the same track on a record repeatedly and have not noticed a difference playing the same part of a track twice or three times in a row. While there might be some slight improvement to demagnetizing each side the big improvement comes from demagnetizing the record before play, especially if it hasn't been demagnetized before. I also don't see any reason how often you play one side vs. the other would have any effect on magnetizing the record. It is not a matter of balancing the magnetic energy but of removing it.
I demagnetize each record before I play it even if I demagnetized it before for two reasons: One, it is easier to just demagnetize each record than it is to try to keep track of which you have done and which you haven't. Second, I am then sure that any re-magnetization from the cartridge has been dealt with.
Demagnetizing has no effect on static. The sonic improvements from demagnetizing are also, IMHO, unrelated to static reduction. Reduction of static generally just reduces noise from ticks and pops caused by static buildup discharging to the cantilever. Although if it is substantial enough it can cause a change in tracking force with negative consequences. Demagnetizing cleans away low level noise and distortion that obscures fine detail and nuance of playing and also reduces high-frequency harshness.
It has occurred to me that all the recent Linn upgrades have gotten us closer to the music by further reducing already low levels of noise and distortion. This is true of the Dynamik, Radikal, Urika and KK audio board upgrades. Indeed the graphs published by Linn engineers on the KK audio board upgrade show that it reduces an already very low noise floor by about 5dB and distortion buy about 15dB. As all who have heard it can attest it makes the music sound much more real. Linn have also made a big deal about the extremely low noise and distortion levels of the DS units pointing out that the noise and distortion measured on the Klimax DS are more likely those of the test equipment! To me record demagnetizing achieves much the same effect: making the music more real by removing low level noise and distortion - this time from the source itself.
I do feel that a quality record cleaning regimen can also allow the stylus to recover more low level information although this is a whole different kettle of fish. I won't get into it right here except to say that I don't have any recent experience of the Keith Monks or Loricraft cleaners, although they have quite a good reputation. But I will say that demagnetizing and record cleaning work together - neither can replace the other.
- Tony Tune-age
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Thomas, how frequently do you demagnetize your albums :?:ThomasOK wrote:Well, now I have to eat my words! A customer came by a couple of weeks ago with an old bulk tape eraser he bought off someone and demonstrated using it on LPs. We were all surprised to hear that there was indeed an improvement. However, the bulk eraser he bought (for I believe about $125US) was very difficult to use as you had to hold the record on top and rotate it on the top plate.ThomasOK wrote:
I decided to investigate further before I posted anything up here. After looking at the available options on eBay I found a unit that is powerful, cheap and handheld - yes, you do wave it over the record. :) I tried it at home when I was recently doing some listening tests with a friend and my girlfriend and everybody could hear that the demagnetized record sounded substantially better. It was more tuneful and really did sound cleaner as if a haze had been removed. I have to say I am now a convert to record demagnetizing.
The unit I have is a Radio Shack 44-233A High-Power Video/Audio Tape Eraser. It is readily available on eBay and generally goes for less than $30US. There is nothing particularly magic about this unit. I picked it because it is a 'High-Power" unit and I wanted to make sure whatever I bought had enough power to do the job well, and because it has a good handgrip and trigger switch so it is easy to hold over the record and operate. I'm sure there are many other similar devices out there that would work just as well. Here is a photo of my unit:
So there you go - it really works. You can improve the sound of your records in about 30 seconds each and for very little money - isn't life wonderful.
Tony Tune-age
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- springwood64
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Tony, my understanding is that the demagnetizing is not related to static build-up. I've not tried it myself, but it may be that you'll hear the benefit of demagnetizing even if you do not have static problems.Tony Tune-age wrote:Never mind Thomas, I just saw where you demagnetize each album before you put it on the turntable. I'll keep my eyes open for the demagnetizer you've suggested. As far as I know, I haven't experienced any issues with static build-up - but there is always a first time :!:
Pete
- Tony Tune-age
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Thanks for the explanation, it will be an interesting process I'm sure :!: Perhaps there will be a sonic difference after demagnetizing 8)springwood64 wrote:Tony, my understanding is that the demagnetizing is not related to static build-up. I've not tried it myself, but it may be that you'll hear the benefit of demagnetizing even if you do not have static problems.Tony Tune-age wrote:Never mind Thomas, I just saw where you demagnetize each album before you put it on the turntable. I'll keep my eyes open for the demagnetizer you've suggested. As far as I know, I haven't experienced any issues with static build-up - but there is always a first time :!:
Tony Tune-age
- Tony Tune-age
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Actually, somebody on this forum did say there was a difference between static build-up on albums and demagnetizing albums. However, since I have never thought about demagnetizing albums (until recently), I confused the issues and didn't remember the differencesTony Tune-age wrote:Thanks for the explanation, it will be an interesting process I'm sure :!: Perhaps there will be a sonic difference after demagnetizing 8)springwood64 wrote:Tony, my understanding is that the demagnetizing is not related to static build-up. I've not tried it myself, but it may be that you'll hear the benefit of demagnetizing even if you do not have static problems.Tony Tune-age wrote:Never mind Thomas, I just saw where you demagnetize each album before you put it on the turntable. I'll keep my eyes open for the demagnetizer you've suggested. As far as I know, I haven't experienced any issues with static build-up - but there is always a first time :!:
Tony Tune-age
This is correct. Static charges are unlikely to be affected by demagnetizing the record. When you demagnetize anything you are returning any magnetically charged particles to a random state which should reduce or eliminate any magnetic field. While the magnetic field that a vinyl record could produce would be quite small, the sensitivity of most phono cartridges to magnetism is quite high.
One of the reasons the Radikal improves the music on an LP12 so much is that it removes low level fluctuating magnetic energy that disrupts the ability of the cartridge to retrieve small details. Considering this, it is not surprising that small amounts of magnetism, caused by magnetic materials in the vinyl mix, could also disturb the cartridge's functioning. Demagnetizing the vinyl removes this disturbance and allows more of the music through. In my experience it also tends to remove some high-frequency hash or smearing giving a smoother and more natural sound to cymbals, etc. Since many cartridges have very powerful magnetic structures, especially many low output MCs, the cartridge itself will tend to magnetize the vinyl over time - hence the need to demagnetize a record more than once.
Static problems are the result of the vinyl becoming charged with static electricity usually from friction with the stylus, cleaning brushes, record sleeves, etc. It is usually worse in dry environments so shows up more in the winter when heating systems remove much of the moisture from the air. Humidifying the room to around 50% is probably the best cure as it is also better for your respiration. You can also use something like the Zerodust pistol to remove static charges.
One of the reasons the Radikal improves the music on an LP12 so much is that it removes low level fluctuating magnetic energy that disrupts the ability of the cartridge to retrieve small details. Considering this, it is not surprising that small amounts of magnetism, caused by magnetic materials in the vinyl mix, could also disturb the cartridge's functioning. Demagnetizing the vinyl removes this disturbance and allows more of the music through. In my experience it also tends to remove some high-frequency hash or smearing giving a smoother and more natural sound to cymbals, etc. Since many cartridges have very powerful magnetic structures, especially many low output MCs, the cartridge itself will tend to magnetize the vinyl over time - hence the need to demagnetize a record more than once.
Static problems are the result of the vinyl becoming charged with static electricity usually from friction with the stylus, cleaning brushes, record sleeves, etc. It is usually worse in dry environments so shows up more in the winter when heating systems remove much of the moisture from the air. Humidifying the room to around 50% is probably the best cure as it is also better for your respiration. You can also use something like the Zerodust pistol to remove static charges.
- Tony Tune-age
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Wow, that is very informative Thomas :!: Thanks for the detailed explanation. Looks like I'll be able to demagnetize my albums, and then use the Zerodust to remove any static charges. You certainly are a wealth of knowledge :!:ThomasOK wrote:This is correct. Static charges are unlikely to be affected by demagnetizing the record. When you demagnetize anything you are returning any magnetically charged particles to a random state which should reduce or eliminate any magnetic field. While the magnetic field that a vinyl record could produce would be quite small, the sensitivity of most phono cartridges to magnetism is quite high.
Demagnetizing the vinyl removes this disturbance and allows more of the music through. In my experience it also tends to remove some high-frequency hash or smearing giving a smoother and more natural sound to cymbals, etc. Since many cartridges have very powerful magnetic structures, especially many low output MCs, the cartridge itself will tend to magnetize the vinyl over time - hence the need to demagnetize a record more than once.
Static problems are the result of the vinyl becoming charged with static electricity usually from friction with the stylus, cleaning brushes, record sleeves, etc. It is usually worse in dry environments so shows up more in the winter when heating systems remove much of the moisture from the air. Humidifying the room to around 50% is probably the best cure as it is also better for your respiration. You can also use something like the Zerodust pistol to remove static charges.
Tony Tune-age