Fire away!
How does the new Linn-sanctioned Project 9 tonearm compares (in tune and musicality) to the old-and-venerable Ittok LV-II??
Run for cover! :mrgreen:
Ittok LV-II vs Project 9
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- vicdiaz
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Ittok LV-II vs Project 9
Vic
Ivor's "Tune-Method Seminar" Alumni
Ivor's "Tune-Method Seminar" Alumni
Re: Ittok LV-II vs Project 9
I would say, not (at all) as good. I have compared the Project 9 with the Akito 2b and the Akito is significantly better than the Project 9. And the Project 9 also has a special sound that I didn't really like. So my guess is that I would definitely prefer a Ittok LVII to a Project 9. Maybe even an old Akito.vicdiaz wrote:How does the new Linn-sanctioned Project 9 tonearm compares (in tune and musicality) to the old-and-venerable Ittok LV-II??
- vicdiaz
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Re: Ittok LV-II vs Project 9
Thanks for the info.Linnofil wrote:I would say, not (at all) as good. I have compared the Project 9 with the Akito 2b and the Akito is significantly better than the Project 9. And the Project 9 also has a special sound that I didn't really like. So my guess is that I would definitely prefer a Ittok LVII to a Project 9. Maybe even an old Akito.vicdiaz wrote:How does the new Linn-sanctioned Project 9 tonearm compares (in tune and musicality) to the old-and-venerable Ittok LV-II??
I'm considering 'Keeling' my LP12 but I'm not too fond of 'drilling' the armboard just to get the tonearm holder in place. Not enough funds in the near future to go all the way with any Ekos incarnation. :(
Vic
Ivor's "Tune-Method Seminar" Alumni
Ivor's "Tune-Method Seminar" Alumni
I had the same problem when I decided to upgrade my LP12 with Keel, since I have an Ittok LVIII. Instead of drilling the Keel, I have made my own integrated arm support. Unfortunately I don't have access to any web site where I can put up a photo. So if you pm me your e-mail address, I could send you some pictures and a short description. If you have better means for showing photos, you are free to use my pictures on this forum.
Mikael
Mikael
- rowlandhills
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Mikael
for a really simple way to post photos, try using http://myfo.to which lets you upload a photo and hosts it until 1 year after the last access to it, free of charge.
for a really simple way to post photos, try using http://myfo.to which lets you upload a photo and hosts it until 1 year after the last access to it, free of charge.
KRDSM, Tundra to 242s
Silvers, K400, Hutter rack
Silvers, K400, Hutter rack
A short description and some photos:
The support is cut out from a 4 mm aluminium plate with a total length of 55 mm. It's fastened with two grub screws (M2 x 3mm) in the back making a three-point fastening. The arm clip is a cut down Ekos ditto (I believe). It’s fastened with a counter sunk screw for plastic (3 mm x 8 mm). If you want to have the arm horizontal, you need to cut down the arm clip and drill a hole that almost breaks trough the plastic. This in order to have enough grip for the screw. To finish of, I quickly sanded the piece with a very fine wet sanding paper in one direction. This could be done much more elaborate, of course.
I have had this solution for almost six months now, without the support coming loose and with no other negative effect. The only damage might be some dents on the arm lift housing because of the grub screws. But as always, you do it on your own risk.
//Mikael (thanks rowlandhills)



The support is cut out from a 4 mm aluminium plate with a total length of 55 mm. It's fastened with two grub screws (M2 x 3mm) in the back making a three-point fastening. The arm clip is a cut down Ekos ditto (I believe). It’s fastened with a counter sunk screw for plastic (3 mm x 8 mm). If you want to have the arm horizontal, you need to cut down the arm clip and drill a hole that almost breaks trough the plastic. This in order to have enough grip for the screw. To finish of, I quickly sanded the piece with a very fine wet sanding paper in one direction. This could be done much more elaborate, of course.
I have had this solution for almost six months now, without the support coming loose and with no other negative effect. The only damage might be some dents on the arm lift housing because of the grub screws. But as always, you do it on your own risk.
//Mikael (thanks rowlandhills)



- vicdiaz
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Thanks! Now I need to get my brother-in-law (he's a Mechanical Engineer) to cut the thingy, drill it, and polish it before I blackmail him! :mrgreen:svarre61 wrote:A short description and some photos:
The support is cut out from a 4 mm aluminium plate with a total length of 55 mm. It's fastened with two grub screws (M2 x 3mm) in the back making a three-point fastening. The arm clip is a cut down Ekos ditto (I believe). It’s fastened with a counter sunk screw for plastic (3 mm x 8 mm). If you want to have the arm horizontal, you need to cut down the arm clip and drill a hole that almost breaks trough the plastic. This in order to have enough grip for the screw. To finish of, I quickly sanded the piece with a very fine wet sanding paper in one direction. This could be done much more elaborate, of course.
I have had this solution for almost six months now, without the support coming loose and with no other negative effect. The only damage might be some dents on the arm lift housing because of the grub screws. But as always, you do it on your own risk.
//Mikael (thanks rowlandhills)
Vic
Ivor's "Tune-Method Seminar" Alumni
Ivor's "Tune-Method Seminar" Alumni
- Moomintroll
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Thanks, Lejonklou. My first tought was to fasten the support around the visible part of the tonearm pillar. But it turned out that I had to run the support around the arm lift device, which was protruding down in the "path" of the support. The other drawback would have been a less sturdy support becaus of the length. But then I discovered that the arm lift device was protruding just enough (about 4 mm) to make a good fastening point. Maybe there will be cases when it doesn´t protrude enough, depending on variants of Ittoks and different hight settings? Anyway, I would do almost anything to avoid drilling a Keel, sooner or later I will have the funding for an Ekos (hopefully an SE 8) ). But that´s after the Radikal, of course!lejonklou wrote:That's a really elegant solution, Mikael.
I'm impressed!
Mikael