Isobarik Advice please
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Isobarik Advice please
I at present have 2 aktiv Klouts driving Ninkas..A friend planted an idea in my head to get one more klout and a pair of Isobariks and go aktiv...and he would sort out anything that needs sorted.Looking for any advice from brik heads or anti Isos out there.
Would I prefer them to Ninkas do you think ..the ninkas are OK..enjoyed the kans more
Many thanks
Would I prefer them to Ninkas do you think ..the ninkas are OK..enjoyed the kans more
Many thanks
I know that tune
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Re: Isobarik Advice please
If you like Kan you going to love Isobarik.Lego wrote:..enjoyed the kans more
It's all about musical understanding!
Just a few thoughts:
Aktiv Isobariks can sound great, but they are not forgiving to the quality of the input signal. You probably know the character from the Kans!
Quite a complex speaker to install as there are a LOT of parameters to check; electronics, interconnects, power cables, mechanics, positioning. If you manage to get them all right, they'll sing.
The Aktiv filter/Dirak might need some renovation as it's quite old.
Make sure the Briks are in perfect shape, as it's difficult if not impossible to source replacement drive units.
Azazello has owned both aktiv Ninkas and now aktiv Briks. He might have some valuable input.
Aktiv Isobariks can sound great, but they are not forgiving to the quality of the input signal. You probably know the character from the Kans!
Quite a complex speaker to install as there are a LOT of parameters to check; electronics, interconnects, power cables, mechanics, positioning. If you manage to get them all right, they'll sing.
The Aktiv filter/Dirak might need some renovation as it's quite old.
Make sure the Briks are in perfect shape, as it's difficult if not impossible to source replacement drive units.
Azazello has owned both aktiv Ninkas and now aktiv Briks. He might have some valuable input.
With a quality source the Aktiv Isobariks are in a totally different league than the Ninkas. Isos are very fine speakers even compared to many of the most expensive speakers out there and driven Aktively are hard to beat.
The difficulty is that Aktiv Isobariks don't show up used all that often (especially on this side of the pond). Older Isobariks can not be converted to Aktiv so you have to make sure the pair you get can be converted. And the Aktiv crossovers are hard to come by and are likely to be in need of some servicing.
As Fredrik mentioned, there are a number of things to consider in getting them right. I would stress the comment on being careful about the drivers, especially the woofers, as replacements are very difficult to find. The tweeters can be replaced by the Ninka tweeter (as a matter of fact, I would recommend it). The most likely place to get midranges is to buy a good set of Kans and strip the drivers out - I know it is bad to think of killing a perfectly good set of Kans but what worthier sacrifice could they perform than giving up their lives so that Isobariks might live. :)
The difficulty is that Aktiv Isobariks don't show up used all that often (especially on this side of the pond). Older Isobariks can not be converted to Aktiv so you have to make sure the pair you get can be converted. And the Aktiv crossovers are hard to come by and are likely to be in need of some servicing.
As Fredrik mentioned, there are a number of things to consider in getting them right. I would stress the comment on being careful about the drivers, especially the woofers, as replacements are very difficult to find. The tweeters can be replaced by the Ninka tweeter (as a matter of fact, I would recommend it). The most likely place to get midranges is to buy a good set of Kans and strip the drivers out - I know it is bad to think of killing a perfectly good set of Kans but what worthier sacrifice could they perform than giving up their lives so that Isobariks might live. :)
Can you not have another listen to a pair Leo. Seems a lot of bother unless you're absolutely sure you MUST have a pair and presume it's been many years since you last heard them. I'm a bit surprised knowing how Source First your approach normally. Also suggest a listen to a Radikal LP12 if you do decide you want Iso's - maybe you'll want a Radikal even more! :D
Many thanks for the advice chaps ,I do agree that they can sound unforgiving but they have sounded magical with an ittok asaka...and when you think of the level the LP12 is at now it reminds me of a Kraftwerk gig I went to a couple of years ago;technology had finally caught up with them..
An ex girlfriends father has a late 80s pair of passive briks and well you know he's getting on a bit ..I wonder how he's doing....think I might give him a call.....
Are passive ones worth going for..?
An ex girlfriends father has a late 80s pair of passive briks and well you know he's getting on a bit ..I wonder how he's doing....think I might give him a call.....
Are passive ones worth going for..?
I know that tune
Agree Charlie but I can get a radikal any time(apart from now) if a good pair of bariks turn up and the seller lives round the corner ..hang source first..Charlie1 wrote:Can you not have another listen to a pair Leo. Seems a lot of bother unless you're absolutely sure you MUST have a pair and presume it's been many years since you last heard them. I'm a bit surprised knowing how Source First your approach normally. Also suggest a listen to a Radikal LP12 if you do decide you want Iso's - maybe you'll want a Radikal even more! :D
I've always felt that Kans to Ninkas has been a kind of sideways move .I was even so scared to try the klout with the Kans I bought another Klout and made them aktiv(times were good then) so there was no going back.I dont think I'll ever be able to afford any of linns new speakers thats visually as well as fiscally ..at least the briks will go with my small bank balance and afghan rug..thats rug not coat..
I know that tune
As you might know, my current setup is LP12 (Keel/Ekos2/Adikt) - Slipsik Kikkin - 4xLK100 - active Isobarik.
About a year ago (or is it two? God, I'm getting old!) I had a pair of Ninkas driven active by a 5125. It's impossible to compare since everything else in the system has changed since then, but I can say that I would never exchange my Isobariks for anything but another truly full-range speaker. The physical feeling you get when you turn up the volume is sooo addictive. If you are skilled enough to set them up properly (or know someone who is - Fredrik spent something like 16 hours on mine), I'd say go for it!
If you want to save money, you might consider selling the Klouts and get two 5125 to drive them. If you get a good price in both directions you might not have to spend much at all, if anything.
About a year ago (or is it two? God, I'm getting old!) I had a pair of Ninkas driven active by a 5125. It's impossible to compare since everything else in the system has changed since then, but I can say that I would never exchange my Isobariks for anything but another truly full-range speaker. The physical feeling you get when you turn up the volume is sooo addictive. If you are skilled enough to set them up properly (or know someone who is - Fredrik spent something like 16 hours on mine), I'd say go for it!
If you want to save money, you might consider selling the Klouts and get two 5125 to drive them. If you get a good price in both directions you might not have to spend much at all, if anything.
Agree with that. Sometimes opportunities arise and you have to grab them. The latest tech is likely to stay around for long and perhaps even improve while you wait.Lego wrote:if a good pair of bariks turn up and the seller lives round the corner ..hang source first..
:lol:at least the briks will go with my small bank balance and afghan rug..thats rug not coat..
Briks look cool, they claim their space in the room and don't try to look like anything else. Just like the big ATC's.
If I ran into a really nice pair of Briks I would be very tempted.
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Some have referred to mine as the Washer & Dryer.lejonklou wrote:Agree with that. Sometimes opportunities arise and you have to grab them. The latest tech is likely to stay around for long and perhaps even improve while you wait.Lego wrote:if a good pair of bariks turn up and the seller lives round the corner ..hang source first..
:lol:at least the briks will go with my small bank balance and afghan rug..thats rug not coat..
Briks look cool, they claim their space in the room and don't try to look like anything else. Just like the big ATC's.
If I ran into a really nice pair of Briks I would be very tempted.
http://forums.naim-audio.com/eve/forums ... 5642933127
(You need to logon to Naim forum to see, sorry)
Chris.
LP12 SE/Radikal/Urika,KK, Aktiv Isobariks
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I first heard active Isobariks in 1979 (courtesy Jimmy Hughes). At that time the source would have been LP12 of that era (ie pre almost every upgrade you can think of), Grace G707 arm, Supex SD900 cartridge, no CD of course. The amps would have been Naim 32.5/SNAPS (HiCaps still five years off) with a NAXO/SNAPS crossover, and three 250s. It still sounded great! These were pretty much the components the speakers were designed for (certainly that's true of the amps). I think we can get too locked into the "source first" mantra: get active Isobariks and let them show you the benefits of each subsequent upgrade to the sources.Lego wrote: if a good pair of bariks turn up and the seller lives round the corner ..hang source first..
Well what do you know a pair of Briks are around the corner..They are mid 80s so passive only ..what do you think guys?Dealer says they can sound a bit shut and long in the tooth ..in aktiv mode a live album would sound amazing another album..Dire.He more or less said 'I wouldnt by them'.. He did suggested I could have a klout driving each Brik..does this work ok?....Be careful what you wish for..Lego wrote:Agree Charlie but I can get a radikal any time(apart from now) if a good pair of bariks turn up and the seller lives round the corner ..hang source first
Your advice and opinion would be very much appreciated
I know that tune
I say "no". If you get yourself a pair of Isobariks you should get the pair that you really want: Active and of the latest spec. Otherwise you will sit and wonder how they would have sonded, instead of listening to music.Lego wrote:Well what do you know a pair of Briks are around the corner..They are mid 80s so passive only ..what do you think guys? [...] Your advice and opinion would be very much appreciated
anthony: Did you use the same power amplifiers for the Isobariks as forthe Ninkas? Where the Isobariks active as well?
I agree Azazello but I was hoping that even old Isobariks would take me to the music anyway .....maybe I'm harking back to the halcyon days..I dont know ..I thought briks were one of the few products that once up and running you forgot about anything else ...also would it make sense to drive each brik with each passive klout?
I know that tune
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Re: isobarik
I've heard active Kabers, Keltiks and passive Akurates (driven by Klimax amps). The best sound I've heard of all these are my aktiv Isobariks (speed & rhythm & pitch & harmony = tune dem). I would say that though wouldn't I :D There are lots of variables here though, including setup that might make anyone of these speakers more favourable on a different occasion.anthony wrote:having owned isobariks, ninkas keltiks and akurates, i could never go back to isobariks, personally I think aktiv ninkas are better in tune dem terms, perhaps not in soundstage though.
I'm not a big fan of passive Akurates from the one occasion I heard them. I thought this new 3k driver technology would be a revelation. It's not based on my one experience. I think the treble coming from my aktiv Isobariks is all-round better sounding. I've not heard active Akurates though which of course would level the playing field so-to-speak. The problem is you need a boat load of amps to go active with these speakers.
In the end the biggest factor is the quality of the signal you feed into the speakers. The Isobariks are very fussy about quality of the front end and system setup. Things can sound really wrong quite easily but setup is not black magic, just work and attention to details. I'm feeding my Briks from an LP12SE that has a Radikal/Eurika into KK. I also have a Slimline Aktiv and custom Linn silver interconnects (Linn Silver XLR on one end and Silver RCA on the other). These cables and their correct dressing have a very significant influence on the sound. The treble of my Briks is being driven by a KCT and the base/mid by a C4200. You need to watch out with the purchase of any Aktiv since it will likely need some rennovation if this has not been done already (capacitors changing etc). There are people out there that can do this for you though. If you find a Slimline version then this will (I think) have a new serial number on it and will have been overhauled by Linn, including the capacitor replacements as mine was.
It's also worth while changing out the tweeters on any pair of Briks you buy. I think you can still get the Hiquphons from Linn but you might also take a leap and try the Ninka tweeters which I hear some feel sound better and are also cheaper! Watch out though since the Ninka tweeters do not have the same sensitivity as the Hiquiphons and would need a gain adjustment on the treble (aktiv case). Fitting the tweeters isn't difficult and you could get a local savvy handy-man to do it if you are not up for it yourself. The mid (Linn modified KEF B110) and base (Linn modified KEF B139) are a different story however--you can't get the base drivers anymore anyhow so make sure any Briks you buy show that these are in good condition (at least the ones you can see :roll: )
LP12 SE/Radikal/Urika,KK, Aktiv Isobariks
Re: isobarik
Thank you Chris! You just saved me a lot of hasstle selling my Briks! From now on, I will blame every flaw in my system (and there are flaws, believe me!) on my shaggy old LK100:s. I would love to hear your system! :shock:Chris Morton wrote:I've heard active Kabers, Keltiks and passive Akurates (driven by Klimax amps). The best sound I've heard of all these are my aktiv Isobariks [...]
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Re: isobarik
Well, mine's not perfect either: I could do with swapping out the C4200 with a couple more KCTs :mrgreen:Azazello wrote:Thank you Chris! You just saved me a lot of hasstle selling my Briks! From now on, I will blame every flaw in my system (and there are flaws, believe me!) on my shaggy old LK100:s. I would love to hear your system! :shock:Chris Morton wrote:I've heard active Kabers, Keltiks and passive Akurates (driven by Klimax amps). The best sound I've heard of all these are my aktiv Isobariks [...]
Actually, I used to have to LK280-Sparks running the base and midrange and I swapped these for the C4200 (I still have the LK280-Sparks). In someways the C4200 is better (it's more in tune ie pitch accurate and harmonious) but two LK280-Sparks have more grip and I feel have a little better sense of rhythm. I can't go back though since my custom Linn silvers has to be modified to be terminated with RCAs at the amp end. When I swapped out the LK280-Spark on the treble for a KCT that was quite a dramatic improvement (and also expensive :shock:)
LP12 SE/Radikal/Urika,KK, Aktiv Isobariks
Decided to let these Briks go as I was only prepared to go as high as £450(trade in was 400)..they went for 680,at least thats 450 in my Brik Bank.My friend said I should try and get the latest as the were definitely the best..especially when they took out the crossover,and I should keep away from early Keltics as some were leaking and some had a tendency to blow up amps..
I know that tune
I agree with Azazello that you should aim for the latest incarnation of Isobariks, and in top condition only. Although I haven't heard all the different versions, I know that the last ones can sound very impressive when carefully installed.
Never heard this thing about early Keltiks!Lego wrote:...and I should keep away from early Keltics as some were leaking and some had a tendency to blow up amps..