Akito 2 vs Ekos 1

springwood64 · Post by **springwood64** » 2008-11-03 20:43

I've had a search on different threads to make sure I'm not asking a question that's already been answered elsewhere (and learned that I should consider cleaning the contacts in my klout in the process :D ) .... so here goes:

I currently have an LP12/Cirkus/Valhalla with an Akito Mk2 and I've managed to get hold of a cheap 80s LP12 with Lingo (Mk1) and Ekos 1. The deck is v cheap and in Asia so I've taken a bit of punt and bought it unseen. I plan to replace my Valhalla with the Lingo, and if that's all I do I'll have got pretty good value. So far, so good.

I am also considering replacing my Akito with the Ekos. Now the Akito I've had from new and it's in perfect condition. However I have no idea what the condition of the Ekos will be. Consequently I don't know if it is worth swapping the arms. I'm afraid I'm too chicken to switch the arms myself - I'd have to get my local dealer to set up the deck correctly. So I have two questions:

1. Is the Ekos 1 a worthwhile upgrade from an Akito 2?
2. Is it possible for me to check that an Ekos is in good condition, or would I be better off asking my dealer to inspect the arm before exchanging?

Azazello · Post by **Azazello** » 2008-11-04 10:29

1: I think that Ekos1 is a very worth wile upgrade from Akito2, There are some discussions on the Akito2 versus late Ittok, but I have never heard anyone claim Akito2 to be better than any Ekos.

3: On a different note: Make sure that you use a credit card to pay for the LP12, then you can reclaim the money via the credit card company, if it turns out to be a scam.

Regards

springwood64 · Post by **springwood64** » 2008-11-04 10:40

Thanks for your advice. Usually if it looks to good to be true, it is too good to be true. Fingers crossed ...

ThomasOK · Post by **ThomasOK** » 2008-11-04 22:49

I agree with Azazello, the Ekos1 should certainly be superior to the Akito2. If you are planning to have a dealer set up and install it I would have them test the arm to make sure it is OK. Linn dealers have been trained by Linn on how to check the bearings.

There are a few simple tests that you can do on your own. Unless the arm has been badly visibly damaged there are really only two main areas of concern: the bearings and the tracking force adjustment dial. The adjustment dial is the easiest to check - just try turning it to different settings. If it moves reasonably easily (without too much force) and has slight clicks at each half gram with full stops at "0" and "3" then it is fine. If it is really difficult to turn you could have a problem. Some Ekos1s had some material on the dial that hardened making it difficult to turn. Sometimes you can get this to work out just by turning it back and forth a number of times, but other times it just has to go in for an expensive repair.

To test the bearings set the tracking force and anti-skate dials to 0 and then balance the arm so the front is up a bit above the platter. Place the headshell over where the label of the record would be and slowly increase the anti-skating force to about .25 to .5 grams. This should cause the arm to swing towards the outside of the platter. If the arm moves smoothly across the entire platter with .25 grams or a bit more then you probably have good bearings. If it sticks at one or more places you likely have bad spots on the bearing. If it takes more than .5 grams to get the arm moving then the horizontal friction is higher than it should be.

You can also test the vertical friction by moving the arm a bit outside of the platter and putting a very light weight on the headshell - something like a couple of small squares of paper or a really small rubber band. The arm should move down smoothly until it hits the armrest. Removing the weight should then cause the arm to move up smoothly. Again if there is any sticking you probably have a bad bearing.

In my experience bad bearings are uncommon in Ekos tonearms and are most prevalent in Akito1s. But I have seen a few Ekos1s with the stuck tracking force dial. I was able to fix a couple of them myself but one was bad enough it had to go back to Linn.

Good luck on the upgrades.

springwood64 · Post by **springwood64** » 2008-11-06 10:26

Thanks v much ThomasOK for your detailed help. The deck will arrive in a couple of weeks (if it turns up at all :( ). I will update this thread accordingly.

Music Lover · Post by **Music Lover** » 2008-11-06 12:07

ThomasOK wrote: Some Ekos1s had some material on the dial that hardened making it difficult to turn. Sometimes you can get this to work out just by turning it back and forth a number of times, but other times it just has to go in for an expensive repair.

As long as you can turn the dial - what is the sound related issue ?

ThomasOK · Post by **ThomasOK** » 2008-11-06 17:15

Music Lover wrote:
ThomasOK wrote: Some Ekos1s had some material on the dial that hardened making it difficult to turn. Sometimes you can get this to work out just by turning it back and forth a number of times, but other times it just has to go in for an expensive repair.
As long as you can turn the dial - what is the sound related issue ?

If you can turn the dial there probably is no sound related issue. However, I may have been too delicate when I talked about it being "difficult to turn". I have seen one or two Ekos1s where the dial wasn't about to turn without the use of pliers! :o I have also seen one where the the gunk in the dial prevented the stops from working allowing you to turn the dial past the "0" and "3" settings. This could lead to the spring being too loose or too tight and the settings being all off. :(

springwood64 · Post by **springwood64** » 2008-12-11 10:01

Sadly the LP12 was a scam: steer clear of any adverts for an LP12 in freeads.net or from fret-audio.com. It's still being advertised despite repeated notifications to the hosting sites.