Hi
all
Linn has ever reccomended caution in handed the delicate articulation of their Tonearms.
I've got Linn Ekos 2nd series and vertical bearing doesn' t work as I'd like . I have tested the bearing with the common small peace of paper and the shell turn in his horizontal position after only three swings . The movement in vertical position appers to have a bit of friction in the vertical bearing. The spring dial is tough when compared to my my Linn Ittok VIII that actually is mounted on my Lp 12. My dealer has said the my EKOS works within Linn Ekos tonearms tolerances and that Linn EKOS and linn ITTOK have much diffence in their articulation design. (??)
I have the linn ITTOK skeleton design of the articulationthat was published in a magazine over 20 y.a,
from examinating it the articulation does not appear so weak at all .
From the examinatiom of the above skeleton design, seems that precision bearing apart, Linn ITTOK and Linn Ekos articulation seems to be the same.
Now my questions are:
Is it true that the articulation is so weak as Linn said ?
If so what does happen when the articulation is a bit torqued or Forced ? I'd like to receive an answer in tech terms.
What does happen to the bearing to the point that it needed to replace them?
What about the linn Ekos and Ittok articulation difference ?
ITTOK - EKOS bearings
Moderator: Staff
I don't have many answers to your specific questions, ROBIZ, but I'd certainly not label the Ekos or Ittok as weak. That said, I have run into far more Ekos arms with a bit of bearing friction than old Ittoks. Not sure about the reason behind that, it could be a weaker design and/or that the Ekos bearings have less play in them to begin with.
Regarding sound quality, I find that an Ekos with a bit of friction can still perform well. It might be preferable with a little friction than a little play in the bearings? In any case, the purpose of the arm is to enjoy music, so in my opinion the final evaluation should be by listening to it.
Regarding sound quality, I find that an Ekos with a bit of friction can still perform well. It might be preferable with a little friction than a little play in the bearings? In any case, the purpose of the arm is to enjoy music, so in my opinion the final evaluation should be by listening to it.
Re: ITTOK - EKOS bearings
I wouldn't describe the Ekos and Ittok as weak, but they are precision instruments and don't benefit from incorrect handling. True: there are arms that will take more punishment than an Ittok or Ekos, but they don't sound as good :-)
Cartridge changing:
Some hi-fi shops have dismissed Linn's advice about cartridge changing (remove arm from TT before tightening cartridge bolts, or loosening from tight - IE 'release' the bearing end of the arm before applying torque at the head-shell), but I've seen a lot of Linn arms, and I've noticed that those with, shall we say a 'varied' service history, are more likely to have bearing problems.
Meanwhile, the ones that are always serviced 'by the book' seem to sound better and maintain performance longer.
So, IMO, Linn's advice to installers about cartridge bolt tightening and loosening is correct, and I'm glad I have followed it, religiously, from day one.
BTW, taking the arm off the turntable is easy, but it is possible to do damage in the process (not just to the arm). For many owners, the best option is to find a good Linn retailer (turntable specialist) and entrust all work to them.
Other issues:
*Time and use will take a toll.
*There has been some controversy about shipping methods (air shipment: temperature variations).
*Over-tightening of the arm-height lock screw. Doing this has compromised or even ruined the lateral bearings in many arms (including the Ekos).
Cartridge changing:
Some hi-fi shops have dismissed Linn's advice about cartridge changing (remove arm from TT before tightening cartridge bolts, or loosening from tight - IE 'release' the bearing end of the arm before applying torque at the head-shell), but I've seen a lot of Linn arms, and I've noticed that those with, shall we say a 'varied' service history, are more likely to have bearing problems.
Meanwhile, the ones that are always serviced 'by the book' seem to sound better and maintain performance longer.
So, IMO, Linn's advice to installers about cartridge bolt tightening and loosening is correct, and I'm glad I have followed it, religiously, from day one.
BTW, taking the arm off the turntable is easy, but it is possible to do damage in the process (not just to the arm). For many owners, the best option is to find a good Linn retailer (turntable specialist) and entrust all work to them.
Other issues:
*Time and use will take a toll.
*There has been some controversy about shipping methods (air shipment: temperature variations).
*Over-tightening of the arm-height lock screw. Doing this has compromised or even ruined the lateral bearings in many arms (including the Ekos).
Last edited by Linnism on 2013-01-15 03:24, edited 1 time in total.
Tonearm bearing
Thanks for your kind answer.Before tighthening the cartridge screws I've always remove my tonearm from the TT. I've had some problem with my Ekos because once fit in the counterweight was too tight to take IT gently off . I recall I've contacted my linn dealer and he advised me that since my counterweight was fitted so tight, I could removed the tonearm from the TT grabbing the tonearm's rod and that there was no need to remove the counterweight. He told me that he used to saw Linn trained dealer in U.K. doing so .
I have trusted on him but I 've always think that it was not the correct way to operate .
I 've had in hand the vertical bearing of an Ekos and seem very strong. As far as the lateral bearing and their bushes I have never had any of those in hand and cannot say. Did anyone know what kind of bearing Linn mounted on the Ekos ?
To me the torque force that you may apply to the lateral and vertical bearing while the tonearm is on the TT shouldn't damage the bearings.
.To me Remove the tonearm in the wrong way is much more dangerous.
I have trusted on him but I 've always think that it was not the correct way to operate .
I 've had in hand the vertical bearing of an Ekos and seem very strong. As far as the lateral bearing and their bushes I have never had any of those in hand and cannot say. Did anyone know what kind of bearing Linn mounted on the Ekos ?
To me the torque force that you may apply to the lateral and vertical bearing while the tonearm is on the TT shouldn't damage the bearings.
.To me Remove the tonearm in the wrong way is much more dangerous.