Interconnects - original or not (split from Playground)

We use the Tune Method to evaluate performance

Moderator: Staff

User avatar
lejonklou
Administrator
Administrator
Posts: 6524
Joined: 2007-01-30 10:38
Location: Sweden
Contact:

Interconnects - original or not (split from Playground)

Post by lejonklou »

[This discussion was split from a comparison between a QED and a Linn Black interconnect in the thread "Playground"]

Brand new Linn Blacks from eBay?

I would inspect the joints. It's easy to tell if they're originals or something else.

In my experience, it's very rare for original Blacks to "go bad" (like some old Silvers have, for unknown reasons).
OscarH
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 304
Joined: 2019-03-14 10:57
Location: Exile on Dane St.

Interconnects - original or not (split from Playground)

Post by OscarH »

lejonklou wrote: 2020-10-20 15:15 Brand new Linn Blacks from eBay?

I would inspect the joints. It's easy to tell if they're originals or something else.

In my experience, it's very rare for original Blacks to "go bad" (like some old Silvers have, for unknown reasons).
Interesting theory that I hadn’t contemplated.

Here’s a picture showing one Linn Black bought from a Copenhagen hifi store (hence for practical purposes presumed original) and the one recently purchased off eBay.

To me they look similar but not identical. I don’t have enough experience to know what kind of tolerances Linn operate with on this product.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
User avatar
Ron The Mon
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 301
Joined: 2014-07-17 17:17
Location: Detroit
Contact:

Amateur Hour

Post by Ron The Mon »

OscarH wrote: 2020-10-20 15:34
lejonklou wrote: 2020-10-20 15:15 Brand new Linn Blacks from eBay?

I would inspect the joints. It's easy to tell if they're originals or something else.

In my experience, it's very rare for original Blacks to "go bad" (like some old Silvers have, for unknown reasons).
Interesting theory that I hadn’t contemplated.

Here’s a picture showing one Linn Black bought from a Copenhagen hifi store (hence for practical purposes presumed original) and the one recently purchased off eBay.

To me they look similar but not identical. I don’t have enough experience to know what kind of tolerances Linn operate with on this product.
Oscar,
The cable on the left was stripped, soldered, and crimped by a semi-skilled amateur. The one on the right, a professional with proper tools.

Ron The Mon
OscarH
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 304
Joined: 2019-03-14 10:57
Location: Exile on Dane St.

Re: Amateur Hour

Post by OscarH »

Ron The Mon wrote: 2020-10-20 16:26 Oscar,
The cable on the left was stripped, soldered, and crimped by a semi-skilled amateur. The one on the right, a professional with proper tools.

Ron The Mon
I’ll be damned. Off course you picked the right (well, left) one Ron. It did look sloppier to me also, but I wouldn’t have dared calling it.

Very worthwhile lesson clearly demonstrated here (apart from being careful on eBay): good hifi is MUCH more than the sum of the parts.
User avatar
Ron The Mon
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 301
Joined: 2014-07-17 17:17
Location: Detroit
Contact:

Re: Amateur Hour

Post by Ron The Mon »

OscarH wrote: 2020-10-20 16:50
Ron The Mon wrote: 2020-10-20 16:26 Oscar,
The cable on the left was stripped, soldered, and crimped by a semi-skilled amateur. The one on the right, a professional with proper tools.

Ron The Mon
I’ll be damned. Off course you picked the right one Ron. It did look sloppier to me also, but I wouldn’t have dared calling it.

Very worthwhile lesson clearly demonstrated here (apart from being careful on eBay): good hifi is MUCH more than the sum of the parts.
Oscar,
I have manufactured cables professionally for decades and have been involved in finish-off and QC for over ten years.

I noticed six discrepancies immediately (a few others came clear upon further inspection). I can share those details if anyone is interested. It will help those buying or building their own.

By the way, nice quality photo. All your photographs are well taken that I've seen. Are you a professional?

Ron The Mon
User avatar
springwood64
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 789
Joined: 2008-10-13 18:19
Location: UK

Re: Amateur Hour

Post by springwood64 »

Ron The Mon wrote: 2020-10-20 17:09 I noticed six discrepancies immediately (a few others came clear upon further inspection). I can share those details if anyone is interested. It will help those buying or building their own.
I'm interested, Ron
Pete

Linn Axis, Kinki, Källa (GS308T+Amplifi HD x 2 + BJC), Boazu, Espeks
Spannko
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 2292
Joined: 2008-01-24 21:46
Location: North East of The Black Country, UK

Re: Playground for practical listening exercices

Post by Spannko »

Hold your horses guys!

The one on the left could be a factory made lead.

It’s hard to tell from the photo, but the left one looks like the sloppy soldering is actually a technique linn use to form a better connection between the barrel and the cable clip/earth point. There should be a solder bridge, meaning that the one on the right is not up to spec.
OscarH
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 304
Joined: 2019-03-14 10:57
Location: Exile on Dane St.

Re: Amateur Hour

Post by OscarH »

Ron The Mon wrote: 2020-10-20 17:09
OscarH wrote: 2020-10-20 16:50
Ron The Mon wrote: 2020-10-20 16:26 Oscar,
The cable on the left was stripped, soldered, and crimped by a semi-skilled amateur. The one on the right, a professional with proper tools.

Ron The Mon
I’ll be damned. Off course you picked the right one Ron. It did look sloppier to me also, but I wouldn’t have dared calling it.

Very worthwhile lesson clearly demonstrated here (apart from being careful on eBay): good hifi is MUCH more than the sum of the parts.
Oscar,
I have manufactured cables professionally for decades and have been involved in finish-off and QC for over ten years.

I noticed six discrepancies immediately (a few others came clear upon further inspection). I can share those details if anyone is interested. It will help those buying or building their own.

By the way, nice quality photo. All your photographs are well taken that I've seen. Are you a professional?

Ron The Mon
Ron,

Thank you, but no I’m not a professional. I do however have a good friend who is and I’ve done some modeling work with him and picked up on the importance of light and being clear on what you actually want to show. I try my best.

I would be very interested in a breakdown of your findings. While I don’t intend to start my own production it would be very useful to get better at inspecting electronics.

Oscar
User avatar
Ron The Mon
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 301
Joined: 2014-07-17 17:17
Location: Detroit
Contact:

Re: Amateur Hour

Post by Ron The Mon »

Spannko wrote: 2020-10-20 17:17 Hold your horses guys!

The one on the left could be a factory made lead.

You are 100% incorrect.
It’s hard to tell from the photo, but the left one looks like the sloppy soldering is actually a technique Linn use to form a better connection between the barrel and the cable clip/earth point. There should be a solder bridge, meaning that the one on the right is not up to spec.
Wrong again.

The photo shows everything and is very well taken.

I have built, finished-off, and QC'd thousands of cables with zero failures over decades. Would you like to learn?

Ron The Mon
OscarH
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 304
Joined: 2019-03-14 10:57
Location: Exile on Dane St.

Re: Playground for practical listening exercices

Post by OscarH »

Further info - I contacted the seller and he insists they are originals delivered with his Majik DSM/Akurate 2200 combo purchased in 2015.

Suppose there is scope for an A-B of my two pairs of blacks...
User avatar
Ron The Mon
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 301
Joined: 2014-07-17 17:17
Location: Detroit
Contact:

Professional Hour

Post by Ron The Mon »

OscarH wrote: 2020-10-20 17:19
Ron The Mon wrote: 2020-10-20 17:09 By the way, nice quality photo. All your photographs are well taken that I've seen. Are you a professional?
Ron,

Thank you, but no I’m not a professional. I do however have a good friend who is and I’ve done some modeling work with him and picked up on the importance of light and being clear on what you actually want to show. I try my best.
How do get no shadows, no reflections, no glare, and gobs of detail? Your one angle shows everything. I would have taken at least two shots from different angles.
I would be very interested in a breakdown of your findings. While I don’t intend to start my own production it would be very useful to get better at inspecting electronics.
Will do.

Ron The Mon
Cable-Expert
Spannko
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 2292
Joined: 2008-01-24 21:46
Location: North East of The Black Country, UK

Re: Amateur Hour

Post by Spannko »

Ron The Mon wrote: 2020-10-20 17:33
Spannko wrote: 2020-10-20 17:17 Hold your horses guys!

The one on the left could be a factory made lead.

You are 100% incorrect.
It’s hard to tell from the photo, but the left one looks like the sloppy soldering is actually a technique Linn use to form a better connection between the barrel and the cable clip/earth point. There should be a solder bridge, meaning that the one on the right is not up to spec.
Wrong again.

The photo shows everything and is very well taken.

I have built, finished-off, and QC'd thousands of cables with zero failures over decades. Would you like to learn?

Ron The Mon
Fire away old boy. I’m all ears!
donuk
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 406
Joined: 2010-02-21 13:25

Re: Playground for practical listening exercices

Post by donuk »

Come on chaps. Let's not get so certain of ourselves. My take on the photo in question is:
Yes, it is poorly soldered with too much heat.
But it was probably done by a semi-skilled professional!

I bought a pair if Linn silvers from my local Linn dealer. They were genuine. After a few years use I moved the equipment and a low hum ensued when I unplugged the other channel.

The earth connection on a plug had become disconnected. It had a dry joint! Easy to repair, but a novice's error. Solder on gold. Not easy to do a dry joint.

So, everyone check their silvers and blacks.

Donuk
Discodave
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 349
Joined: 2017-05-18 14:50
Location: Belfast, Ireland

Re: Playground for practical listening exercices

Post by Discodave »

Funny you should mention that, one of my linn Silvers has similar issue. Moving, took out red interconnect, popped out of casing, stuck it back in, thought nothing of it until reinstated and one channel down. Gasp said I. Looked inside and a wee cable has snapped off. Sorry, not very technical I know. Hoping it's a simple soldering job I can call on a friend to do.
LP12, Lingo 3, Cirkus/Kore, Tramp 2, Basik Plus Ania, Linto
Majik Ds, Kisto, Tundra 2.0, Majik 109
donuk
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 406
Joined: 2010-02-21 13:25

Re: Playground for practical listening exercices

Post by donuk »

DiscoDave,

If you were near York, I would do it for you.
If you bought it from a local Linn dealer, just take it back - they should fix it for you, possibly FOC.

Which leads to another problem with silvers and blacks - they are always very tightly fitting, especially with recessed back panels like the ADS &c - hard to extract. I have repaired a couple for friends over the years - friends, but not cable-cherishers, who resort to pulling them out by the silver cable.

I suppose the tight fit is appreciated by electrons.

Donuk dark downtown York
Discodave
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 349
Joined: 2017-05-18 14:50
Location: Belfast, Ireland

Re: Playground for practical listening exercices

Post by Discodave »

Kind offer Donuk, many thanks. Belfast is a bit far to paddle from ha. I have a friend who is handy soldering so should be grand. All my cables are second hand. As is all of my system :) Actually bar the 109s and Ania. Doh!
LP12, Lingo 3, Cirkus/Kore, Tramp 2, Basik Plus Ania, Linto
Majik Ds, Kisto, Tundra 2.0, Majik 109
User avatar
lejonklou
Administrator
Administrator
Posts: 6524
Joined: 2007-01-30 10:38
Location: Sweden
Contact:

Re: Playground for practical listening exercices

Post by lejonklou »

donuk wrote: 2020-10-20 19:48 Which leads to another problem with silvers and blacks - they are always very tightly fitting, especially with recessed back panels like the ADS &c - hard to extract. I have repaired a couple for friends over the years - friends, but not cable-cherishers, who resort to pulling them out by the silver cable.

I suppose the tight fit is appreciated by electrons.
They are usually much too tight and need to be loosened. I do this with a pair of thin pointy pliers, which I open on the inside of the slotted barrel. There are six slots, which makes three pairs of "flaps" that I gently bend apart several times. Gently! If overdone, the metal cracks. What you want is to flex them a little, until the fitting is "just right".

There is an improvement in sound when they fit "just right". When they're too tight, the sound gets very sharp and almost distorted. When they're too loose, the sound gets distorted in a sloppy way.

The overly tight fitting is a problem because when one uses too much force connecting and disconnecting, it can crack the soldered joints between the female connector and the circuit board. It had happened a bunch of times over the years, twice on my own products.
User avatar
Ron The Mon
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 301
Joined: 2014-07-17 17:17
Location: Detroit
Contact:

Cable Inspection

Post by Ron The Mon »

OscarH wrote: 2020-10-20 17:41 Further info - I contacted the seller and he insists they are originals delivered with his Majik DSM/Akurate 2200 combo purchased in 2015.
It is common for hi-fi dealers to purchase a spool of cable and connectors to make their own finished cables. There is a profit advantage. Many dealers think since they have wire strippers, a soldering iron, solder, and a vice, it is easy and will achieve a factory quality product. The one advantage a dealer offers is in making custom length items.
Suppose there is scope for an A-B of my two pairs of blacks...
After everyone reads what I write below, that will cement in your minds the importance of assembly after hearing your Black/Black audio comparison. There is more importance in assembly than the type of wire, connectors, or solder. By the way, are they exactly the same length?

Image
I will call the amateur cable on the left, "A", and the Linn factory cable, "B". I am viewing the photo on a 4K monitor. The point of this post is to show what to look for in improperly built cables and discern amateur from professional, which may help in identifying good sounding units through visual cues. I am not demonstrating proper building of cables nor giving advice on the best way to build them yourself and all specific tools, etc.

During my tenure at Honeywell, part of my duties were warranty cable repair. Most of that time was spent emailing customers stating their returned cables were not built by us. Some were modified or repaired. We had a lifetime warranty because none of our cables ever failed. Every amateur solderer I've ever talked to thinks they can mimic a professional or a machine. I authorized only one warranty replacement over two years because that cable was from 1952 and I had no photos to compare it against. I also thought it funny someone had the gumption to return a used 55 year-old product.

What I noticed from the photo above:
1] A is stripped with wire strippers; notice the "cut" isn't deep enough and doesn't go 360º on the black outer insulation. It is shredded/ripped apart. The proper way to strip a cable is to score it first with cable strippers. You then bend it back and forth and pull it off. Below is my favorite tool to use because it has an infinitely adjustable dial for exact cutting depth.
Image
If you are building speaker cables, this is the tool you should use as well. NEVER use wire strippers to strip speaker wire over 14AWG. Depending on the thickness of the insulation, I sometimes use it on 14AWG wire.

I would bet the shield wires of A are scratched and nicked. Scratching results in the surface plating being removed and the solder attached to the inner core along with the plating. Nicking means the electrons must travel a longer distance and over the core as well. Most electron flow in a wire is on the outer surface which is why most wires are plated and not solid.

It is probable that Linn factory cables are cut and/or stripped on a machine. I have used machines that measure, cut, strip, and tin the wire in less than a second. Even the cheapest machines with tooling cost over $12K, so not something a dealer would have. However, they allow consistent measurement, clean cuts, and no nicks. Coax cable with braided shielding and PTFE insulation can be cut and stripped this way but it is impossible it was done on cable A as the PTFE insulation was stripped too short.


2] The cable relief clamp on A is squashed from top to bottom and flares out. A handheld tool was used for this and wasn't centered, resulting in uneven crushing; you can see the uncentered scratch. There is also a fracture on the right side of the clamp showing it was bent inward with needle-nose pliers before being squashed.

The cable B relief was crimped in a preset tool; notice the imprinted centered line on the left side from the tooling and a slight "crimp" in the black insulation between the relief and shroud. The purpose of the relief is take stress off the soldered joints; B is a perfect circle, clamped around the cable. A is crushed downward, adding stress.


3] In all my years of building cables, it is rare to hand build one or two sets of cables at a time. Usually someone is assigned to build several dozen to a thousand at a time. This means cables are built in steps. A is a one-off. The RCA connector was put in a vice, then the core soldered to the tip. Then the ground was soldered. Then the relief improperly crushed. The evidence for this is the upward bend of the PTFE (white) insulation; it was crushed after soldering.

The proper steps are first cut and strip cable, then gently twist shield wires and tin. Tin center conductor of cable. Solder shield wires to connector. Crimp strain relief after placing tinned center conductor into RCA bucket allowing no tension on shield strands. Final step is soldering center conductor.

Cable A is very stiff at its soldered connections and becomes a conduit to transmitting vibrations from component to component in addition to audio vibrations. I have personally built few audio cables and have no experience with Linn Black cable and their connectors.

However, the principle is the same except in reverse to most commercial cables. It is the the strain or vibrations on a cable that can fatigue or break a solder joint or connector.


4] The shield wire strands of A are far too short. This is probably because as it was improperly stripped, it tore off strands in addition to scratching and nicking. The solder has run up between the insulations, resulting in more stiffness, probably melting part of the PTFE. Notice in B the shield strands are nick-less and solder-free.


5] A cable core is stripped improperly and too short as well. The insulation should abut the bucket (no "bridge" Spannko). The proper technique is to strip the wire without nicking it, resulting in a 90º cut. A was done with handheld wire strippers, proven by the bevel of the ripped insulation. The tool I showed above has a notched area under the pivot, with a mini adjustable blade designed precisely for this.

Notice the white insulation of A shows the stiffness of a lot of solder wicked up underneath. This reduces flexibility of the connection. Is this important? I have noticed the best sounding RCA cables I've reverse engineered are spot-welded. This means there is no solder at all under the insulation and the insulation isn't deformed or melted.

6a] Let's move on to the actual soldering. Many think it's all about the soldering but it isn't, which is why this is number 6. It's like painting. I often hear people say, "WOW!, that's a great paint job.", when what they really mean is, "WOW!, a lot of prep work went into making that paint job look good.".

Soldering is also a skill. I consider myself above average right now because I'm out of practice. The person who builds cables at Linn may not solder daily but has far more experience and practice than a dealer who solders for 18 minutes a month. I am not down on dealers. In this case, I need to compliment the dealer who made cable set A; you made a set of cables in a retail environment, probably at a test bench, that sounds almost as good as a set of QED cables. Not bad. Most hi-fi shops I've seen have only one 25 watt iron. Some have that and a 40 watter.

If you want to be a pro, you need pro equipment. That means an adjustable range iron with multiple tips is a must. You also need not only practice, but practice on specific items.

On cable A, the shield was soldered with the RCA connector vertical, tip down; again a clue this was not done in a manufacturing facility. Note the blob of solder near the tip end where excessive solder dripped. It is also discolored compared to B, hinting at too much heat.

Because the stranded wire can untwist, you should tin the RCA connector ground as well. Then add the proper amount of solder necessary to the hot iron. Heat the ground wires and the horizontal connector at the same time.


6b] Cable A was heated at the RCA tip with a soldering iron and solder added. Vertically as well, notice the "drip". This is wrong. PTFE insulated wire soldered to an RCA bucket is not the same as soldering 12AWG wire to a Deltron banana plug. As I mentioned above, preparation is pertinent. The proper prep is to solder the shield, crimp the strain relief, and put the slightly tinned wire into the bucket. Then add the proper amount of solder necessary to the hot iron. Hold the solder-added iron tip to the bucket before the solder is about to wick. If not, you will melt the PTFE insulation.

All soldering is predicated on using the ideal iron tip and temperature. Just because a solder joint works, doesn't mean it's an ideal connection. It requires testing many cables before making a single build equal to manufacturing standards. If you want to make a set of Linn Blacks (or whatever), plan on buying several lengths of cable and a half dozen connectors.

Ron The Mon
Last edited by Ron The Mon on 2020-10-20 23:32, edited 1 time in total.
Discodave
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 349
Joined: 2017-05-18 14:50
Location: Belfast, Ireland

Re: Playground for practical listening exercices

Post by Discodave »

Impressive!
LP12, Lingo 3, Cirkus/Kore, Tramp 2, Basik Plus Ania, Linto
Majik Ds, Kisto, Tundra 2.0, Majik 109
User avatar
markiteight
Moderator
Moderator
Posts: 834
Joined: 2012-01-13 01:50
Location: Seattle, Wa. USA

Re: Playground for practical listening exercices

Post by markiteight »

lejonklou wrote: 2020-10-20 20:16 They are usually much too tight and need to be loosened. I do this with a pair of thin pointy pliers, which I open on the inside of the slotted barrel. There are six slots, which makes three pairs of "flaps" that I gently bend apart several times. Gently! If overdone, the metal cracks. What you want is to flex them a little, until the fitting is "just right".

There is an improvement in sound when they fit "just right". When they're too tight, the sound gets very sharp and almost distorted. When they're too loose, the sound gets distorted in a sloppy way.

The overly tight fitting is a problem because when one uses too much force connecting and disconnecting, it can crack the soldered joints between the female connector and the circuit board. It had happened a bunch of times over the years, twice on my own products.
Interesting! Do you feel this applies to the T-Kable as well? The RCAs on my T-Kable are extremely tight. I hate having to disconnect them because I feel like I'm going to rip the jacks right out of the Linto's back panel. I always figured the T-Kable was noticeably tighter than Linn's other interconnects because it handles much weaker signals.
WheresMyNaim
Active Member
Active Member
Posts: 63
Joined: 2020-10-04 18:20

Re: Playground for practical listening exercices

Post by WheresMyNaim »

markiteight wrote: 2020-10-21 01:37
lejonklou wrote: 2020-10-20 20:16 They are usually much too tight and need to be loosened. I do this with a pair of thin pointy pliers, which I open on the inside of the slotted barrel. There are six slots, which makes three pairs of "flaps" that I gently bend apart several times. Gently! If overdone, the metal cracks. What you want is to flex them a little, until the fitting is "just right".

There is an improvement in sound when they fit "just right". When they're too tight, the sound gets very sharp and almost distorted. When they're too loose, the sound gets distorted in a sloppy way.

The overly tight fitting is a problem because when one uses too much force connecting and disconnecting, it can crack the soldered joints between the female connector and the circuit board. It had happened a bunch of times over the years, twice on my own products.
Interesting! Do you feel this applies to the T-Kable as well? The RCAs on my T-Kable are extremely tight. I hate having to disconnect them because I feel like I'm going to rip the jacks right out of the Linto's back panel. I always figured the T-Kable was noticeably tighter than Linn's other interconnects because it handles much weaker signals.
50% of the interconnects I own are overly tight (including Linn blacks and silvers). HiFi companies act like tight plugs are a badge of quality. There should be an industry standard. Fredrik's mention of damage has been a concern of mine with my kit.
WheresMyNaim
Active Member
Active Member
Posts: 63
Joined: 2020-10-04 18:20

Re: Playground for practical listening exercices

Post by WheresMyNaim »

OscarH wrote: 2020-10-20 15:34
lejonklou wrote: 2020-10-20 15:15 Brand new Linn Blacks from eBay?

I would inspect the joints. It's easy to tell if they're originals or something else.

In my experience, it's very rare for original Blacks to "go bad" (like some old Silvers have, for unknown reasons).
Interesting theory that I hadn’t contemplated.

Here’s a picture showing one Linn Black bought from a Copenhagen hifi store (hence for practical purposes presumed original) and the one recently purchased off eBay.

To me they look similar but not identical. I don’t have enough experience to know what kind of tolerances Linn operate with on this product.
The plugs differ. The measurements above and below the threads look different to my eye. Linn's RCA supplier could have changed or their plug could have "evolved" but another potential clue as to the authenticity. RTM's analysis is detailed - FWIW I unscrewed a spare set of Linn blacks at each end - they're all finished like the ones on the RHS.
User avatar
springwood64
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 789
Joined: 2008-10-13 18:19
Location: UK

Re: Playground for practical listening exercices

Post by springwood64 »

Thanks Ron for taking the time to share your expertise with such a detailed informative and interesting post.

I discovered a few weeks ago that I preferred a pair of blacks over the pair of silvers I was using. Having inspected them I think the silvers are custom made. They are shorter and appear hand soldered.
IMG_20201021_070400890.jpg
IMG_20201021_071102596.jpg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Pete

Linn Axis, Kinki, Källa (GS308T+Amplifi HD x 2 + BJC), Boazu, Espeks
OscarH
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 304
Joined: 2019-03-14 10:57
Location: Exile on Dane St.

Re: Playground for practical listening exercices

Post by OscarH »

Good morning!

Seems I’ve inadvertently opened a can of worms. Well worth opening though.

A bit further info, the original pair is exactly 120cm barrel to barrel while the pair of unknown provenance is 122. A further indication on top of Ron’s impressive review that something’s not quite right.

Hereby the two pitted against each other. Source is still the hakai.


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lk8ky9qh2v7i ... t1OPa?dl=0

(I’ve also made clips of the original black vs QED, but let’s not have all the fun straight away)
beck
Very active member
Very active member
Posts: 2752
Joined: 2012-10-22 22:25

Re: Playground for practical listening exercices

Post by beck »

beck wrote: 2020-10-19 09:36 Interesting set of clips.

What I notice is that video 1 just seem to fit my ears and play along without me having to do anything to enjoy the music.
Video 2 I hear as a “clearer” but also harder to “understand” version of the same.
Here is a copy paste answer to your clips! :-)

Just exchange video 1 with blackA and video 2 with BlackB.


Your clips are the most enjoyable on this forum. The view is such a delight! :-)
Playing cd’s…………
Post Reply