Torque wrench

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HansW
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Torque wrench

Post by HansW »

Hi!
Can someone suggest where/how I can buy a torque wrench in Sweden (or that can be sent to Sweden) and which one to buy. I need it for my speakers and LP12.
Tried to find the Sturtevant model recommended by some on this site without success.

Best regards

Hans
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Hermann
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Re: Torque wrench

Post by Hermann »

I found mine on ebay in the US for a reasonable price. Will be delivered in a week.

No used offers in Germany or Europe and new priceless.
Trust your ears
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lejonklou
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Re: Torque wrench

Post by lejonklou »

I have a bunch bought on eBay. They are sometimes well worn and need to be checked.

I also have new ones and have sold a few to my retailers. It's not cheap, well above SEK 2000 and that was a while ago on a cheaper dollar.

You can email me if you wish to buy a new one and I will check how much it is.
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Re: Torque wrench

Post by HansW »

Thanks Fredrik. Will do.
Hans
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Linntek
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Re: Torque wrench

Post by Linntek »

Hi’

Just bought a SEALEY SCREWDRIVER TORQUE DIGITAL 0.05-5NM 1/4,
I didn’t really expect anything but I’m very surprised of how well it works.
It is pretty accurate (2%) and it it comes with a nice calibration sheet.
The range is perfect and it’s easy to use.

One flaw is that it doesn’t hold the bits firmly. They can fall out - or maybe it’s just mine.

£ 38,45 on eBay.
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Ron The Mon
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Sealy Torque Wrench

Post by Ron The Mon »

Linntek wrote: 2020-02-14 19:03 Just bought a SEALEY SCREWDRIVER TORQUE DIGITAL 0.05-5NM 1/4,
I didn’t really expect anything but I’m very surprised of how well it works.
It is pretty accurate (2%) and it it comes with a nice calibration sheet.
The range is perfect and it’s easy to use.

One flaw is that it doesn’t hold the bits firmly. They can fall out - or maybe it’s just mine.

£38,45 on eBay.
Linntek,
Thanks for the tip. I just looked and it sells brand-new for $126 delivered. I recently compared a Sturtevant to Tom O'Keefe's main driver and they were off one and-a-half clicks. It would be nice to have a more accurate standard worldwide for recommendations.

To keep the bits in is really easy. First of all, have you looked down and made sure it has no dirt in it? It is common for a thin film of debris/dust to cause this. Just keep stuffing double-stick tape into the hole until it stops pulling dirt out. Occasionally, the magnet rusts and you can use a cotton swab doused in alcohol to clean it.

If that doesn't work, stuff a clean piece of the double-stick in and cut with scissors a thin business card magnet and push it down.

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Linntek
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Re: Torque wrench

Post by Linntek »

Hi’
Mine was brand new.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SIEGEN-STS10 ... Sw-s5dTYJ5

Edit: link
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Ron The Mon
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Re: Torque wrench

Post by Ron The Mon »

Linntek wrote: 2020-02-14 21:36 Mine was brand new.
Linntek,
Sometimes when new, there is still oil or dirt present.

You can also reuse a magnet from another older screwdriver; pop it out of the old and glue into the new.

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Linntek
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Re: Torque wrench

Post by Linntek »

I will fix it with the magnet trick. If I look inside there isn’t any spring or magnet.
Anyway, it’s a fine tool. I “torque” any screw I see....
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Re: Torque wrench

Post by Ianw »

I’m not familiar with the Sealy wrench but it looks as if you got a good price.

I bought the Sturtevant wrench and had to get it imported from America to UK via their UK distributer. Delivery took 8 weeks and the price was over £200 GBP.


It’s a great bit of kit and careful use really gives sonic rewards.

If you ask him maybe TOK could send you his list of torques, hope that is OK to mention.

Happy wrenching!
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Re: Torque wrench

Post by Mikeg »

I have been convinced of the importance of using the correct torque settings on my LP12 for several years now. I started off with an RS Components torque driver and latter added a Wera one to expand the range. I found there was a noticeable improvement to sound quality even when compared to a professionally setup deck. I was happy and content that I was getting the best out of my turntable.

That was until I saw the recommendation, on the AT95 thread, that one of the screw torque setting was 0.2Nm-11. My conversion from the torques quoted to the torque drivers I was using was that each notch represented about 1/5th of an Nm. Using that conversion it would mean that 0.2Nm-11 would be less that zero Nm. Obviously that was ridiculous .

I ended up buying a Richmont Sturtevant CAL36/4 torque screwdriver and found that over 3.0Nm each notch would equal about 1/4 of an Nm and lower that 0.2Nm it would be about 1/6th of an Nm. The upshot was I redid all of my fixings with the actual quoted torque settings - what a difference!

I would advise anyone currently using an alternative torque driver to change to Richmont Sturtevant CAL36/4 torque screwdriver as soon as they are able to. Even though the difference in torque must be small the difference in sound quality is not
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The Mighty Richmont Sturtevant CAL36/4

Post by Ron The Mon »

Mikeg wrote: 2020-02-18 12:00 I started off with an RS Components torque driver and later added a Wera one to expand the range. I found there was a noticeable improvement to sound quality even when compared to a professionally setup deck.

That was until I saw the recommendation, on the AT95 thread, that one of the screw torque setting was 0.2Nm-11. My conversion from the torques quoted to the torque drivers I was using was that each notch represented about 1/5th of an Nm. Using that conversion it would mean that 0.2Nm-11 would be less that zero Nm. Obviously that was ridiculous .

I ended up buying a Richmont Sturtevant CAL36/4 torque screwdriver and found that over 3.0Nm each notch would equal about 1/4 of an Nm and lower that 0.2Nm it would be about 1/6th of an Nm. The upshot was I redid all of my fixings with the actual quoted torque settings - what a difference!

I would advise anyone currently using an alternative torque driver to change to Richmont Sturtevant CAL36/4 torque screwdriver as soon as they are able to. Even though the difference in torque must be small the difference in sound quality is not.
Mike,
A few things I've learned recently which may also help you:
A few months back I compared my CAL36/4 to Tom O'Keefe's. I was concerned because Tom and I usually hear the same thing, yet my torques are slightly off from his. It turns out my driver is off one-and-a-half notches from Tom's (at .4Nm I believe). This made complete sense as that is about how much my better sounding values were!

I also has some instances where two torques sounded good, but slightly different. Tom said, "Then it probably sounds better in the middle. I have several torques which sound best at half a notch.". This was a big AHA! moment for me. It means the CAL36/4 has infinite adjustability!!!

A few days later I reviewed my torque chart history and found several settings where I had trouble deciding. I then compared a half-notch difference, and in two instances BINGO, that's where it sung.

So essentially, I'm suggesting using settings recommended by others, but experiment as well, including "in between" notches.

By the way, did you buy an AT-VM95 or was that just the impetus to buy a Richmont Sturtevant? Do you reside in the U.S.?

Ron The Mon
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Re: Torque wrench

Post by Mikeg »

Ron The Mon wrote: 2020-02-18 18:34

By the way, did you buy an AT-VM95 or was that just the impetus to buy a Richmont Sturtevant? Do you reside in the U.S.?

Ron The Mon
That's a long story! The short version is after reading the AT95 thread I decided to try aluminium bolts in my Adikt only to find they wrecked the threads in the Adikt. Sickened and as I didn't want to pay out £400+ I decided to try an AT-VM95c set it up as per your recommendations (except the 0.2Nnm-11 screw) and it was good but I still preferred my Adikt. In order to get all the torques right I ordered a Richmont Sturtevant CAL36/4 torque screwdriver.

While I was waiting for it to arrive I managed to source another body for my Adikt and was able to try a number of combinations:

1. I replaced the steel threaded bars with aluminium nuts on my old Adikt
2. Used the new Adikt body with the steel bolts
a] as standard
b] with the counterweight close to the pivot and tracking force set with a digital gauge.
c] Added extra weight to the standard ittok counterweight and set the tracking weight by dial

I have ended up with my preferred option being the new Adikt body as standard. Having the counterweight close to the pivot in either option b] or c] seemed to reduce the musical flow Admittedly I never tried the AT-V<95c with the correct torques after I got the Richmont Sturtevant CAL36/4 torque screwdriver so that might change the results
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