Torque settings for Axis, Akito and AT95E

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springwood64
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Torque settings for Axis, Akito and AT95E

Post by springwood64 »

Has anyone done any torque tuning for the following:

1. Linn Axis
2. Linn Akito (arm board / collar fixings) - I expect that this is the first version of the Akito, since it shipped with an Axis.
3. AT95E (headshell screws)

Ditching the dodgy Linn silvers and replacing them with factory blacks has breathed new music into the Axis so I'm planning to optimise it where I can
Pete

Linn Axis, Kinki, Källa (GS308T+Amplifi HD x 2 + BJC), Boazu, Espeks
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Torque Setting For AT95E

Post by Ron The Mon »

springwood64 wrote: 2020-11-17 08:41 Has anyone done any torque tuning for the following:
3. AT95E (headshell screws)

Ditching the dodgy Linn silvers and replacing them with factory blacks has breathed new music into the Axis so I'm planning to optimise it where I can.
springwood64,
There is no reason to share torques for an AT95E. If you have the money to replace a tonearm cable and the skills for that and torquing, you need to replace the AT95E with an AT-VM95 body. The AT-VM95C is far better than the AT95E both musically and "hi-fi" sounding.

The difference in cost between an AT-VM95C and just the stylus is $10. It is not worth your time to get the best out of an AT95E. Your AT95E stylus can be trimmed with a set of dykes (side-cutters) to fit the better sounding body and continue using it. However, I guarantee you'll like the new "C" better. If you already have a torque-driver, then $34 for an entire cartridge is peanuts.

On the AT-VM95 threaded insert body, use the included aluminum screws and torque to .2Nm -4.

On the top single tiny philips screw, torque that to .2Nm -11 (yes eleven) which is much lower than comes from the factory. That also goes for AT95, AT-VM95, and K9/K5.

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Orientation and Platter Clocking

Post by Ron The Mon »

springwood64 wrote: 2020-11-17 08:41 Ditching the dodgy Linn silvers and replacing them with factory blacks has breathed new music into the Axis so I'm planning to optimise it where I can.
Pete,
Have you clocked the outer platter on your Axis? What about the basics like proper orientation of the belt and felt mat?

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Re: Orientation and Platter Clocking

Post by springwood64 »

Ron The Mon wrote: 2020-11-18 22:22 Have you clocked the outer platter on your Axis? What about the basics like proper orientation of the belt and felt mat?
By 'clocked' do you mean checked the timing? I haven't done that.

Belt and mat is a really good point. I've just inspected the belt and I can see slight crazing across the outer surface, and the inner surface has a central whitish stripe. I'll get a new belt. I think I've got a retired LP12 belt somewhere that is in better shape (left over from servicing one of my previous LP12s)

I was wondering if it was worth replacing the cart/needle - I'll do that too.
Pete

Linn Axis, Kinki, Källa (GS308T+Amplifi HD x 2 + BJC), Boazu, Espeks
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Re: Torque settings for Axis, Akito and AT95E

Post by springwood64 »

Wow LP12 belts are more expensive than I remember. £50 seems rather steep!
Pete

Linn Axis, Kinki, Källa (GS308T+Amplifi HD x 2 + BJC), Boazu, Espeks
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Re: Torque settings for Axis, Akito and AT95E

Post by ThomasOK »

I wouldn't get too worried about the belt. Slight crazing on the outside is normal as is the line on the inside from running on the crown of the motor pulley. But what Ron was referring to was positioning. If the belt is smoother on the inside than the outside then it is on right in terms of inside vs. outside. But there is a top and a bottom which you can determine by listening to the way it is and then flipping it over while keeping the proper side inside. Once I find the right way I put some small arrows on the outside pointing in the direction of travel. The mat has a top and a bottom which you have to determine by listening. The turntable will sound most musical with the outer platter positioned precisely on the inner platter. Again this can only be found by listening. I put a small pencil mark across the junction of the two platters and listen, rotate the outer platter 90 degrees and listen again, rotate it another 90 degrees and listen again and rotate it a further 90 degrees and listen. Once you have listened to 0, 90, 180 and 270 degrees decide on which is best and which is second best. The optimum position will be between those two, closer to the best one. You just have to keep narrowing it down until you get it just right, a pencil tip width will make a noticeable difference, then mark across the junction of the two platters with a sharpie.

On torques I haven't actually done an Axis and doing the torques for the electronics card would be difficult as you need to take the table apart to get at it. However, most Linn electronics are most musical pretty close to .4Nm (except gear in Klimax cases) so that would get you pretty close. The arm collar to the top should be pretty much the same as to a Linn armboard as they are basically the same composition so I would expect a torque of .6Nm + 3 notches for the three arm collar bolts. The arm height locking screw on an Akito 3 or 2 is 1.6 -3 and I would expect the Akito 1 to be the same, but I'm not sure as the metal in the pillar could have changed. As I always mention to those I give torques to, there is some variation from one driver to the next so you have to listen to different settings. So these numbers are a starting point but it could end up a bit above or below these settings with your driver. One notch is musically important so try at least one and two notches above and below those settings. If it is better 2 notches off then try three, etc. until it starts getting worse and then back up to the most musical setting. Ran has already given you the VM95e settings which are within a notch of the settings for the AT95e (and a Rega Carbon, for that matter) but be careful with the screw on the top of the cartridge. While .2 -11 notches is quite low, some cartridges come from the factory with that screw partially stripped and tightening it further will just strip it worse. If it feels like it is not tightening just leave it alone. Good luck.
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Re: Torque settings for Axis, Akito and AT95E

Post by springwood64 »

Thanks Thomas and Ron for your very detailed information.

I've compared the current belt with the spare that has been stored with my collection of LP12 bits for around 10-20 years .

The Axis belt appears to be very slightly thicker and is about 1cm longer than the LP12 belt when gently straightened. It also fits very lightly around the motor pulley and inner platter, whereas the LP12 belt fits tightly. With the Axis belt there is some noise for about 3-4s as the platter starts spinning which may be the belt slipping.

I'm looking forward to lots of tuning fun with all these parameters.
Pete

Linn Axis, Kinki, Källa (GS308T+Amplifi HD x 2 + BJC), Boazu, Espeks
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Re: Torque settings for Axis, Akito and AT95E

Post by springwood64 »

I have installed the ATVM95C, torqued the headshell screws (0.2 -3) and the arm pillar screw (1.6 -1), and tuned the tracking force (2.02g).

I'm delighted with progress so far, and rather surprised at the difference that the headshell screw torque makes. I found this easier to tune than the tracking force. In fact I'm not convinced with my tracking force so I'll revisit it before progressing.

Clips here: https://www.lejonklou.com/forum/viewtop ... 995#p51995
Pete

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Re: Torque settings for Axis, Akito and AT95E

Post by springwood64 »

Last night I played an LP I've owned since the 70s and which for quite a few years was played on the family mono Philips Dansette with a couple of coins tacked to the headshell to stop the needle from jumping: Elton John's Yellow Brick Road.

After the first couple of tracks, from the kitchen, my wife said "I never really liked Elton John before, but now I realise how good he is"

It's no exaggeration to say that the Axis and the rest of the system is currently playing better than anything I have had before.
Pete

Linn Axis, Kinki, Källa (GS308T+Amplifi HD x 2 + BJC), Boazu, Espeks
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Re: Torque settings for Axis, Akito and AT95E

Post by V.A.MKD »

springwood64 wrote: 2020-11-26 09:32 Last night I played an LP I've owned since the 70s and which for quite a few years was played on the family mono Philips Dansette with a couple of coins tacked to the headshell to stop the needle from jumping: Elton John's Yellow Brick Road.

After the first couple of tracks, from the kitchen, my wife said "I never really liked Elton John before, but now I realise how good he is"

It's no exaggeration to say that the Axis and the rest of the system is currently playing better than anything I have had before.
The best sign that you are on the best "musical" direction ...
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Re: Torque settings for Axis, Akito and AT95E

Post by ThomasOK »

That's always the kind of thing I like to hear. :-)
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