Replacement unit for Linn Kan 1 (B110)...?

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Naimare
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Replacement unit for Linn Kan 1 (B110)...?

Post by Naimare »

Hi, my trusty Linn Kan 1 was punished at a party by my son and I need to replace one of the B110 units.

Any suggestions for high quality replacement units and experience with performing the open heart surgery on the speaker?

Any advice appreciated!

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Re: Replacement unit for Linn Kan 1 (B110)...?

Post by Spannko »

You’ve got several options.

A) Contact Falcon Acoustics in the UK. They have the rights to manufacture the original B110, but Linn did their own modifications to the B110, so you may not get an exact match.

B) Look for an old Kan B110 on eBay, but there were several B110 specs and modifications so you may not get an exact match.

C) Get someone to repair your B110, but even then you may not get an exact match.

D) Dismantle your Kans and sell the enclosure, crossovers, hf units and the single bass unit separately, then purchase a good pair of Kan 1’s with the proceeds. You’ll get a great pair of speakers and probably make some money too. Win-win!
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ThomasOK
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Re: Replacement unit for Linn Kan 1 (B110)...?

Post by ThomasOK »

You should be able to modify a unit from Falcon to match what Linn did. First, though, you would have to make sure Falcon makes the same version of the B110 as there were different variants, I believe some with different impedances. You can see what Linn did by looking at the back of the blown driver. First, they use a soldering iron with a fine point and melt four small holes spaced at 90 degrees into the throat of the cone between the dustcap and the voice coil former. Not for the faint of heart. Then they put one or more strips of metal damping on the magnet and basket (I think ScotchDamp but not sure). Finally they paint the basket and magnet with what appears to be an automotive undercoating. If you do all this to the correct drive unit you should have a good match, but it still might not be exact.

I should also mention that the drive units are sealed into the cabinet with silicone sealant so they require some prying to get them loose. Usually the best way is to find just the right size screw that will thread into the basket (where you have removed the mounting bolts) and use something to pry it up, preferably with a block of wood underneath to protect the cabinet. For that matter, you need to carefully pry off the grill which is glued in place. In putting in the new driver you should run a bead of silicone sealant around the rebate in the cabinet where the driver fits and put a little bit in each hole to seal the screws when mounting the replacement driver.

All in all, option D from Spannko may be your best bet.
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