I have a question with respect to the cross brace/bar. I have recently took the Lingo 2 out and installed the Akurate Radikal. I had a cross bar in my LP12 which was holding the motor control board and I left it where it was for better stability of the plinth. Are you supposed to take it off when you have a Radikal?

I left mine in place as I didn't think that it would affect anything - as to whether you should or not I have no idea!

I did remove all the plastic standoffs as potentially they could vibrate.

Pedro: Excellent - makes perfect sense. I'm about to install my Lingo 4 so wanted to get your read on this!

Thanks again.

I haven't yet gotten one of these but I see Pedro has you sorted out.

Defender wrote: ↑2021-01-11 17:09 I have a question with respect to the cross brace/bar. I have recently took the Lingo 2 out and installed the Akurate Radikal. I had a cross bar in my LP12 which was holding the motor control board and I left it where it was for better stability of the plinth. Are you supposed to take it off when you have a Radikal?

No, you should always have the cross brace in place. It not only strengthens the plinth, it is what the nuts and washers press against to hold the top plate down.

As to the plastic standoffs I haven't tried with and without to see if it makes any difference (probably a worthwhile test at some point). You shouldn't have to worry about any vibration from them as the clips hold tight to the cross brace but they are likely to provide a little amount of damping. Whether that is good or not is what you would determine if you tested it both ways.

Hi guys
Quick question if I may ,would you still snip the grounding link on the xlr if you were fitting the nylon standoffs ?
Don't want to fiddle with it if there will be no benefit.
Many thanks Lee.

LSPC wrote: ↑2022-01-08 15:14 Hi guys
Quick question if I may ,would you still snip the grounding link on the xlr if you were fitting the nylon standoffs ?
Don't want to fiddle with it if there will be no benefit.
Many thanks Lee.

As having discovered the problem and suggested the fix, I say:
No, your don't need to snip the grounding link on the XLR if you're using the nylon standoffs that were eventually supplied.

lejonklou wrote: ↑2022-01-08 16:28

LSPC wrote: ↑2022-01-08 15:14 Hi guys
Quick question if I may ,would you still snip the grounding link on the xlr if you were fitting the nylon standoffs ?
Don't want to fiddle with it if there will be no benefit.
Many thanks Lee.

As having discovered the problem and suggested the fix, I say:
No, your don't need to snip the grounding link on the XLR if you're using the nylon standoffs that were eventually supplied.

I fully agree.

Thanks for the answer guys much appreciated 👍

Hope it's not too late to resurrect this thread. I was installing my Lingo 4 (finally!) and noticed a small jumper in the package and a description regarding the use of this on the circuit board to effect a different grounding arrangement for the Lingo 4. While this may not be the same issue as the one in this main thread (given that Linn introduced the nylon standoffs to mitigate Fredericks findings), has anyone experimented with the jumper and, if so, what were the findings (pre-nylon standoffs and post)?

That sounds like the jumper that adds a ground connection between LP12 chassis and the Lingo 4 power supply. The very same connection that was always present before the nylon standoff fix was released.

No need to use it unless you have a ground problem and no other way to fix it.

What he said.

The jumper was designed to connect the LP12 chassis ground to the Lingo power supply ground. Before the plastic posts it did nothing because they were already connected. Now with the posts it is there if you have another grounding problem. This might happen if you mounted a Rega toneram (or other without a ground wire to connect to the chassis) as the chassis, sub chassis, bearing and platter would then not be connected to ground. When I put a Rega arm on an LP12, or work with one brought in that way, I connect a wire from the sub chassis to the Rega arm ground so everything is properly grounded. That is the better solution.

Thanks guys. "Oh, what a tangled web we weave"!