Cartridge torque settings
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Cartridge torque settings
I know a few of you here have put some time and effort in to optimising torque settings. I wanted to know if anyone has got information about the optimal torque setting for the screws on the front of the Kandid and Krystal cartridges? Thanks in advance for any information.
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HIDDENSYSTEMS
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Re: Cartridge torque settings
Hi Roger,
If I told you I'd have to shoot you :-)
Whilst many LP12 specialists do it "Linn tight", others here have in their heads probably as a competitive advantage.
We have a Rega RP10 with an Aphelion and includes a torque screwdriver marked to a setting they like for their top end MC http://www.rega.co.uk/aphelion.html that's marked as 0.4nm - I normally prefer more for Linn MC.
Bring your deck to me and we can put a hidden gem torque figure in plus do coffee. I'm nearly out of Tranquility's again BTW. Have you got another 50 ?
If I told you I'd have to shoot you :-)
Whilst many LP12 specialists do it "Linn tight", others here have in their heads probably as a competitive advantage.
We have a Rega RP10 with an Aphelion and includes a torque screwdriver marked to a setting they like for their top end MC http://www.rega.co.uk/aphelion.html that's marked as 0.4nm - I normally prefer more for Linn MC.
Bring your deck to me and we can put a hidden gem torque figure in plus do coffee. I'm nearly out of Tranquility's again BTW. Have you got another 50 ?
http://www.hiddensystems.co.uk
Lejonklou | Linn | Naim | Devialet | Rega | Totem | |Kudos
Lejonklou | Linn | Naim | Devialet | Rega | Totem | |Kudos
Re: Cartridge torque settings
Thanks Chris, and yes I may come up and have an experiment with your torque settings:-) I was also interested in the bolt on the front of the cartridges that clamps the generator assembly?
By the way, I've pretty much finished that Akito rebuild. I just want to leave the bearings overnight and re check tomorrow before I finally put it back together. I'll be interested in how it sounds, these new bearings are superb, and I reckon friction levels are probably similar to the Ekos now. I can't hear any lost motion or noise through the stethoscope so hopefully it's good to go now.
By the way, I've pretty much finished that Akito rebuild. I just want to leave the bearings overnight and re check tomorrow before I finally put it back together. I'll be interested in how it sounds, these new bearings are superb, and I reckon friction levels are probably similar to the Ekos now. I can't hear any lost motion or noise through the stethoscope so hopefully it's good to go now.
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HIDDENSYSTEMS
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- Joined: 2010-06-27 12:15
- Location: Ascot Berkshire UK
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Re: Cartridge torque settings
Cheers Roger, look forward to it. Can you repair ceased Ekos dials? Also I looked at your original post and didn't realise you wanted to fiddle with the front bolt. I doubt that would need much but ThomasOk may know.....
http://www.hiddensystems.co.uk
Lejonklou | Linn | Naim | Devialet | Rega | Totem | |Kudos
Lejonklou | Linn | Naim | Devialet | Rega | Totem | |Kudos
Re: Cartridge torque settings
Yep, as long as they haven't been completely mashed!
Re: Cartridge torque settings
I have not yet experimented with the torque on that front screw, and neither have I heard of anyone doing it. My guess is that it makes a big difference.
And I also suspect that unless one knows what one is doing, it's better left untouched!
And I also suspect that unless one knows what one is doing, it's better left untouched!
Re: Cartridge torque settings
I used to run my Akivas without the plastic shell and used to re tighten the front screw every 4 months or so. Made a significant difference in my opinion. The Kandid uses a plastic/nylon screw and front block and appears to be considerably less fussy but i noticed the front screw on the Krytal was not very tight so gave it a tweak the other evening and the cartridge sounds a lot better, but was wondering if anyone here had arrived at any optimum torque figures.
As Fredrik points out, don't mess with yours if you're not confident with delicate devices. (!)
As Fredrik points out, don't mess with yours if you're not confident with delicate devices. (!)
Re: Cartridge torque settings
So it worked itself loose? That's interesting!
Re: Cartridge torque settings
I have also not experimented with that screw. To be honest I've been a bit leery of doing so. Since my understanding is that the Kandid is built and adjusted by a 70 something Japanese master who hand tunes and listens to each one I didn't think it was something I should mess with. Also I don't think it is normal plastic. I thought I had heard that the front yokes of the Lyra cartridges were made from some kind of artificial coral, not sure about the screw.
Anyway, haven't tried it so far. Considering your experience with the Krystal I might give it a go on the next one I set up. I expect that torque will be quite low but could certainly make a worthwhile improvement if gotten dead nuts on. I'll probably wait until I am working on a mostly worn Kandid coming back for replacement before I brave that one though.
Anyway, haven't tried it so far. Considering your experience with the Krystal I might give it a go on the next one I set up. I expect that torque will be quite low but could certainly make a worthwhile improvement if gotten dead nuts on. I'll probably wait until I am working on a mostly worn Kandid coming back for replacement before I brave that one though.
The LP12 Whisperer
Manufacturer, Distributor, Retailer and above all lover of music.
Manufacturer, Distributor, Retailer and above all lover of music.
Re: Cartridge torque settings
I 'think' the Kandid might be a special case. Not so much due to it's value, but as you say the material is more inert than the normal alloys used in say the Krystal and other MC cartridge mechanisms. The screen is also nylon or similar material so again I have a feeling it will be less critical.
Coming back to the Krystal though, it is conventional in terms of steel and consequently will have a narrower band of tolerance due to it's lack of damping and will be more likely to resonate with the energy created by the stylus and cantilever. I don't think it worked itself loose, I'm just not convinced it was correctly tightened to start with.
On another subject Frederik, from memory you run the Adikt. I have a 2M black here, which works well. But I discovered that if you plug the empty space in the stylus assembly it takes it up a decent notch. I haven't tried it with the Adikt as it's not fitted to player at the moment, but it might be worth looking at getting rid of all the empty spaces that you can. This is a technique that was used by the maker of a very exclusive range of cartridges many years ago, the thinking being that empty spaces amplify vibration and resonances. I used a small piece of blutak. I imagine that material has some damping properties which might not be ideal, but if you were able to get some blue foam or similar that might block the space but not change the damping characteristics of the enclosure. With the Ortofon I was so pleased with the initial result I just left it with the Blutak and called it a day.
Coming back to the Krystal though, it is conventional in terms of steel and consequently will have a narrower band of tolerance due to it's lack of damping and will be more likely to resonate with the energy created by the stylus and cantilever. I don't think it worked itself loose, I'm just not convinced it was correctly tightened to start with.
On another subject Frederik, from memory you run the Adikt. I have a 2M black here, which works well. But I discovered that if you plug the empty space in the stylus assembly it takes it up a decent notch. I haven't tried it with the Adikt as it's not fitted to player at the moment, but it might be worth looking at getting rid of all the empty spaces that you can. This is a technique that was used by the maker of a very exclusive range of cartridges many years ago, the thinking being that empty spaces amplify vibration and resonances. I used a small piece of blutak. I imagine that material has some damping properties which might not be ideal, but if you were able to get some blue foam or similar that might block the space but not change the damping characteristics of the enclosure. With the Ortofon I was so pleased with the initial result I just left it with the Blutak and called it a day.