is 220v that much better?

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is 220v that much better?

Post by bonzo » 2007-11-26 01:28

im in the states, have all linn gear, and have 2 dedicated 20amp lines. ive read/heard that upgrading to 220v lines, especially for linn gear, is a signifigant improvement. To anyone with experience here, is it that much better,pls describe the improvements if possible, and just what is involved running 220v line? the 2 110v lines were quite simple.
lp12, Keel, K Radikal, Urika, EkosSe/1 Kandid KK1/D, Tundra Mono 2 Tarandus, 242s mk2, Rel B1.

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Post by kevinm » 2007-11-29 22:39

I have all of my amps connected to 220v lines. It made a big improvement in the quality of the music. It is as easy to run a 220v line as it is to run a 110v.

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Post by ThomasOK » 2007-11-30 01:21

I find running the system on 220 Volts to be a significant improvement musically. I had a couple of co-workers over a while back to hear the system and did a couple of A/B dems for them. One was a single vs. two Lintos and the other was switching the Klimax Kontrol from 220 volts to 110 Volts and back. They all heard the improvements in both A/Bs but felt the 220 Volts made a substantially bigger improvement even though it was only on the preamplifier (the rest of the system stayed at 220). The improvement on the whole system was even more pronounced. So far I have found 220 Volts to improve every component I have been able to run at that voltage.

Running a 220 Volt line is indeed no more difficult than running a 110 Volt line. You just need a 220 Volt circuit breaker to fit your box - in most cases it takes up the space of two 110 Volt breakers one above the other. I used 10 gauge Romex but I believe 12 gauge would probably be up to handling the current. To meet code you need to use a 220 Volt outlet on the wall so that nobody plugs a 110 Volt device into it.

DISCLAIMER: I am NOT an electrician. Installing your own AC wiring and circuit breakers can be very dangerous. Unless you are comfortable working with AC wiring, it is best to leave any installation to professional certified electricians.

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Post by bonzo » 2007-11-30 16:45

thank you guys,
so now i need to find a power strip to replace my naim strips im using. Laslty, is there a need to change anything on the linn gear to switch from 110 to 220? i think some of the older stuff yes, but not sure about newer. FInally, can a system be fed with 2 dedicated line, 1 using 110 and one 220? or is that just dangerous? (i see a weekend project coming.. :D )
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Post by artikulate » 2009-03-08 21:59

hello all,

So if one were to switch to 220 operation would you only do circuits for the amps, pre in 220 and leave sources at 110 or wouold you do all the circuits in 220. Is it ok to run some sources in 110 that I dont want to change to 220 ie. cable box and TT motor which I dont think switches to 220 and having those sources then feeding components running in 220. I have thought about doing this for a long time but keep putting it off--I have no problems doing the work myself---actually I already have 12 guage lines run to the system it would just be a matter of getting new circuit breakers, receptacles and plugs---any good sounding 220 receptacles and plugs that anyone can recommend???
Last edited by artikulate on 2009-03-09 06:54, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by artikulate » 2009-03-09 06:49

Ok, I have been thinking about this further and doing some research and now Im confused---do I need some kind of transformer to run my linn stuff on 220V or can I just put in the proper circuit breaker and receptacles and thats it----i am reading that people use transformers when they go 220---what about my linn power cables that are designed for 110V_ I would have to replace the plug that goes into the outlet with the proper one--would I also need to replace the end that goes into the equipment or can I leave it and wire the plug end accordingly---if I just need to replace plug how do I wire it---OR do I need to get proper mains leads for 220v??? Someone please advise---Im really interested in doing this!!!! Thanks!!!

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Post by Music Lover » 2009-03-09 10:16

Hi Ron
My understanding is that all modern Linn equipment accept both 110 and 230V (auto-sensing PSU), just check in the manual.
And no need replacing the power leads given the plugs fit the power outlets in your wall.


PS on older Linn equipment you have to manually change.

Good Luck.
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Post by artikulate » 2009-03-09 16:35

Hi Music Lover,

If I use proper 220V receptacles the plug end of the Linn cords won't fit. Thomas, how did you wire your system for 220- I know its against code but can you use a 120v recptacle wired properly for 240v ie. proper breaker at panel with hot wire going to the hot terminal of receptacle and the other hot wire going to what is usually the neutral on the 120v receptacle and ground to ground?? I have a dedicated audio room and no young kids around so there is no risk of plugging in a 120v item into the 220v feed---these receptacles will only ever have audio equipment capable of 220v plugged in----if I could use my current receptacles this way no need to get new power cords at all???

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Post by Music Lover » 2009-03-09 22:47

Ron you either use your existing 120V power cord and 120V power outlet - running 220V on them, or (recommended) changing to a 220V outlet and 220V cable.
I suggest you let a pro do the installation.
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Post by lejonklou » 2009-03-09 23:25

Some US power cords I've been looking at have not been rated at 230V, which makes them illegal to use at that voltage. What real risk that would present, I can't say. But an insurance company would probably regard any accident as your own fault...

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Post by ThomasOK » 2009-03-10 17:23

There is no need to use transformers for any current Linn equipment. The last piece of equipment from Linn that could not be used on either voltage was the Classik Music K. The replacement Classik Music 2008 is also multi-voltage.

To find our what you need to do to run a piece of Linn equipment at 220 Volts you simply have to look at the back panel and it will tell you. Most units (Klimax Kontrol, Pekin, Chakra amps, Majik and Akurate series, new Classik Music) are auto-ranging - you just plug them in and they work on either voltage. Other equipment like the Linto, Ikemi and the 2250 amp have a switch to change between 115 and 230 Volts. Finally there are some (the Lingo is the only one that comes to mind) where you need to change both a switch and the fuses - again the proper fuse size is labeled on the back for each voltage.

As to the cabling/receptacle requirements I'll PM you as that is a bit more complicated.

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Post by ThomasOK » 2009-03-10 22:57

On switching to 220 Volts I have found that all my components sound better at the higher voltage setting. I currently have my REL B1 subwoofer running at 110 Volts partly as the US distributor and owner of REL, Sumiko, is most uncooperative in providing the information as to how the conversion is done. I believe I have it figured out anyway and should be able to make the conversion soon. However, using the B1 at 110 Volts and the rest of the system has caused no problems and the REL still improves the sound of the system when connected. When I first checked 220 Volts I found that just switching the Ikemi made a substantial improvement with the rest of the system at 110 Volts. So, yes, you can mix 110 and 220 Volt components but all components I have tried it with have sounded better at 220 Volts including the ATC speakers and an Alesis Masterlink CD/Hard drive recorder.

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Post by artikulate » 2009-03-12 02:12

Hi Thomas,

I know I am being overly paranoid here but I have one final question. I want to run my Linn gear on 220v mains supply here in Canada. My Linn gear all has the autosensing voltage selector and the power supplies can run on 50 or 60 Hz so that should be no problem. 220V supply in Canada is different than 240V supply in Europe. In Canada we get 220v with two 110v lines that are 180 degrees out of phase (two phase) whereas in Europe 240V is single phase. My question is does it really matter to the Linn electronics how the 220/240V is achieved (ie. Im worried because the Linn stuff was designed and built in a European country so is it expecting 240v to be done in the way it is done in Europe by design or can the gear accept 220V in the manner it is done in North America without any problem). Hope this made sense??? I just want to make sure Im not going to damage my gear!!!!!! Thanks!!!

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Post by ThomasOK » 2009-03-12 04:17

The 220 Volt power in the US is the same as it is in Canada (actually I believe in the US it is nominally 230 Volts). One phase of 110 Volts and another phase of 110 Volts. As I mentioned before it works perfectly in my system and those of a few of my customers using Linn equipment.

I did not realize that in Europe the 240 Volts is all in a single phase. Now it makes me wonder whether 240 Volts single phase or 220 Volts split phase would sound better. I can't think of any simple way to try it though.

Linn mentioned in their Klimax Solo manual that units run on 220 Volts in a 110 Volts country would be able to produce more continuous power and sound better so I can't see why there would be any problem. It is also interesting to note that Furman and some others use huge isolation transformers to split the incoming power into two 55 Volt feeds to give a "balanced power" and this works fine with all the audio equipment we've plugged into it.

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Post by artikulate » 2009-03-12 12:56

Hi Thomas,

Thanks again---that makes me feel better about the switch. I have one final question (I know I said that last time lol!!!) which i will ask you in a PM. Thanks!!!

Ron
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Post by Azazello » 2009-03-12 15:26

artikulate wrote:(...) which i will ask you in a PM. Thanks!!!
If it's a question that can be of general interest, we are very happy if you care to write it here in the forum. The activity here isn't too high, and it's a shame if good information stays hidden in PM:s.

/Az

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Post by ThomasOK » 2009-03-12 18:16

Azazello wrote:
artikulate wrote:(...) which i will ask you in a PM. Thanks!!!
If it's a question that can be of general interest, we are very happy if you care to write it here in the forum. The activity here isn't too high, and it's a shame if good information stays hidden in PM:s.

/Az
Not trying to hide good information in PMs, just leery about recommending ways to circumvent electrical safety codes on a public forum! :mrgreen:

The question was actually how to wire a receptacle for 220 Volts in the US and Canada. North American electrical wiring codes have the wiring Black for Hot, White for Neutral and Green for Ground. Ron just wanted to make sure that the proper way to wire a 220 Volt receptacle is to use Black for one 110 Volt phase of the AC, White for the other 110 Volt phase and Green for Ground which is correct. Of course in the UK (and I would imagine all of Europe) the wiring is Brown, Blue and Green/Yellow for Ground.

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Post by SaltyDog » 2009-07-13 23:15

ThomasOK,

If I may trouble you to PM me with a how to use existing power strip (wiremold) for 220V.

Thanks,

Jim

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Post by davestp1 » 2009-07-26 17:41

I have a tunebox with slim line brilliant that I recently bought from the UK. I am in Canada. There is a slot on the back with 110v and 220v, I simply changed it over to 110, plugged it and and pressed the button and it came on. Just wanted to make sure and quickly shut it off.

I have yet to put the active cards in it. Do I have to change the fuse as well? Thanks, Dave
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Post by davestp1 » 2009-07-28 12:37

Bump anyone??
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Post by sommerfee » 2009-07-28 18:18

davestp1 wrote:Do I have to change the fuse as well?
AFAIK yes. As far as I remember all products I bought new which came with such a switch also came with two different fuses, one for 110V and one for 220V.

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Post by lejonklou » 2009-07-28 19:05

If you do have to change the fuse, it should say this clearly near the power inlet.

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Post by ThomasOK » 2009-07-28 19:59

lejonklou wrote:If you do have to change the fuse, it should say this clearly near the power inlet.
I agree. Some of the products with switchable input voltage used the same fuse for both settings (Ikemi and Genki) while others need different fuses (Lingo). The proper fuse size will be printed on the back panel near the power connector.

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Post by davestp1 » 2009-07-30 12:23

I checked yesterday evening, it is a slim line brilliant power supply, and it is printed on the rear of the casing that both 110 and 240 volts take the same fuse. I popped it out just to make sure that it was in fact the correct one. I assume as it is a slim line brilliant that this is standard (the same fuse). Thanks,
Dave

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Post by SaltyDog » 2009-09-17 21:07

Just talking with my electrician and he says to never use white (in USA) for anything other than neutral. He's using Black, Red (instead), and green for ground.

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