Thanks for your replies!
That's probably a very good idea to contact these guys you linked matthias! It's quite possible they have the caps I need, I will e-mail them right away. btw, I saw you used the parable of David and Goliath in another thread, the same parable could be used in the context of Linn Kan. Also remember that King David was the greatest of musicians.
1 Samuel 16:23 "So it came about whenever the evil spirit from God came to Saul, David would take the harp and play it with his hand; and Saul would be refreshed and be well, and the evil spirit would depart from him."
That quote was also the opening lines to a interesting radioshow on Swedish radio that was reasoning about how music lead us to our source. A show I heard because Linnofil wrote about it on the Swedish Linn forum, thanks for that and also thanks for your offer Linnofil! It sounds like a lot of fun and informative! You did a few more tweaks and I may consider them myself.
Thanks for some insight in painstaking methods to achieve great results Lejonklou. I can imagine your description matches the procedure of assembling the crossover in the first place quite well, when the Kan was developed and refined.
Old Linn Kan I, can they be improved?
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Efraim roots
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Efraim roots
- Very active member
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- Joined: 2009-10-23 01:37
- Location: Sweden
Ok, time for an update. Not the most interesting results yet, but just to let you know what happened so far.
First; these websites matthias tipped about did not respond to my e-mail. And I never got the chance to listen to Linnofils Kans either but maybe in the future. One of the themes in this thread is slow progress :-) Slowly but surely.
It was jungle out there with all audiophile capacitors with esoteric descriptions, these are also huge in size compared to the original electrolythics. I suddenly remembered I saw a picture on this forum of the inside of Klångedang filters with Monacor parts. That was the kind of parts I was looking for, no esoteric audiophilia, just well made standard products (my view of the brand from earlier). So I googled them and ordered their polypropylene capacitors. The values on the original caps were not standard ones so I had to use several caps i parallel, configured like this: (12uf+1uf+1uf) - (3uf+1uf+1uf) - (4,7uf). It feels a bit bad not to have the right values in one capacitor, isn't it likely that parallel wiring degrade the signal compared to using the right value??
Anyhow, the result is really promising. I have done one speaker only to keep a reference, when I'm really happy with the first one I'll do the other one. I did as little changes as possible to the original configurations and the crossover look very clean and original, I have not touched any cables or connections. My biggest problem was when I should put back the crossover, it was a great pain to fasten the screws! I got 3 of 4 screws in place and assembled the speaker but without the silicon seal. The updated speaker sound really good, and I can not imagine it will lose something at all compared to original. Now I need to solve a proper fastening for the crossover, optimize placement of wires and wool on the inside, then finish of with a good sealant for the bass driver (tweeter has not been touched, it's really solid). I have ordered Hylomar Blue sealant and maybe I use this instead of silicon, opinions? Have any of you seen Kans with this blue sticky sealant? (it stays sticky year after year).
I actually plan to drill 4mm holes in the cabinet were the crossover screws is. Then fasten nuts to the crossover boards screw holes and put some 25x4mm screws thru the cabinet from the back and fasten the crossover to the cabinet this way. In my head it looks like a good solution. It gets easier to torque the crossover fixings, and it feels like a superior fixing in general with more possibilities for optimization. Downside is of course the holes in the cabinet but with good screws it will look OK I think, don't think air leakage will be a problem either, if it's a problem I could use a sealant.
This project has got competition tho, I now started with Naim IBL also since I recently bought another pair. I have started to put together the best parts from my two pairs into one original and stunning pair (my first was heavily modified in places, and the second pair lightly modified in other places). Now I'm using IBLs which is nearly finished in my system and I must say I'm AMAZED by these speakers. To make it short; Kan mk1 is a punk with great sense of timing, but IBL is a Jazz musician, incredibly tuneful and a sense of tempo responsiveness I never experienced at home before.
Stay tuned :-)
First; these websites matthias tipped about did not respond to my e-mail. And I never got the chance to listen to Linnofils Kans either but maybe in the future. One of the themes in this thread is slow progress :-) Slowly but surely.
It was jungle out there with all audiophile capacitors with esoteric descriptions, these are also huge in size compared to the original electrolythics. I suddenly remembered I saw a picture on this forum of the inside of Klångedang filters with Monacor parts. That was the kind of parts I was looking for, no esoteric audiophilia, just well made standard products (my view of the brand from earlier). So I googled them and ordered their polypropylene capacitors. The values on the original caps were not standard ones so I had to use several caps i parallel, configured like this: (12uf+1uf+1uf) - (3uf+1uf+1uf) - (4,7uf). It feels a bit bad not to have the right values in one capacitor, isn't it likely that parallel wiring degrade the signal compared to using the right value??
Anyhow, the result is really promising. I have done one speaker only to keep a reference, when I'm really happy with the first one I'll do the other one. I did as little changes as possible to the original configurations and the crossover look very clean and original, I have not touched any cables or connections. My biggest problem was when I should put back the crossover, it was a great pain to fasten the screws! I got 3 of 4 screws in place and assembled the speaker but without the silicon seal. The updated speaker sound really good, and I can not imagine it will lose something at all compared to original. Now I need to solve a proper fastening for the crossover, optimize placement of wires and wool on the inside, then finish of with a good sealant for the bass driver (tweeter has not been touched, it's really solid). I have ordered Hylomar Blue sealant and maybe I use this instead of silicon, opinions? Have any of you seen Kans with this blue sticky sealant? (it stays sticky year after year).
I actually plan to drill 4mm holes in the cabinet were the crossover screws is. Then fasten nuts to the crossover boards screw holes and put some 25x4mm screws thru the cabinet from the back and fasten the crossover to the cabinet this way. In my head it looks like a good solution. It gets easier to torque the crossover fixings, and it feels like a superior fixing in general with more possibilities for optimization. Downside is of course the holes in the cabinet but with good screws it will look OK I think, don't think air leakage will be a problem either, if it's a problem I could use a sealant.
This project has got competition tho, I now started with Naim IBL also since I recently bought another pair. I have started to put together the best parts from my two pairs into one original and stunning pair (my first was heavily modified in places, and the second pair lightly modified in other places). Now I'm using IBLs which is nearly finished in my system and I must say I'm AMAZED by these speakers. To make it short; Kan mk1 is a punk with great sense of timing, but IBL is a Jazz musician, incredibly tuneful and a sense of tempo responsiveness I never experienced at home before.
Stay tuned :-)
the players of instruments shall be there..
Sorry, forgot about this. Check PM!Efraim roots wrote:I never got the chance to listen to Linnofils Kans either but maybe in the future.
Dont' feel bad, there is a lot of tolerances in capacitors and the originals where likely not anywhere near the stated value. I don't think (by the results) it's that bad to have parallell capacitors. It might even be better, or?Efraim roots wrote:It feels a bit bad not to have the right values in one capacitor, isn't it likely that parallel wiring degrade the signal compared to using the right value??
Good stuff and good thinking!Efraim roots wrote:Anyhow, the result is really promising. I have done one speaker only to keep a reference, when I'm really happy with the first one I'll do the other one.