For Inside**2 readers only.
As seen elsewhere, results about the mounting direction of the
cable set between the Dynamik PSU and the Radikal PCB seem
to vary. Recognizing the difference between the two dircections,
the question is not far away whether a soldered connection could
sound even better. I always have the feeling that these crimp
connectors might be convenient but not the best musically. And
cleaning the contacts once per year is also laborious. The start of
such considerations is, of course, to secure that it is possible to go
back and purchase the connectors. But I couldn't find those in the Radikal.
They are from Tarng Yu, Taiwan, iirc TU3007 series. Is a
supplier for them known by anyone?
Radikal Dynamik internal wiring (inside squared)
Moderator: Staff
I have a couple of answers for you on this one, Klaus. First of all, I think the connectors you mention are also made by JST. I have been using JST connectors myself and have the original JST crimp tools for this connector and a larger series as well. Therefore I've been able to experiment quite a bit with crimped versus soldered connections.
Just soldering the wires to the connectors results in a worse performance than a proper crimp. When crimping, it's essential to get the pressure just right; too little or too much sounds worse. A third option exists and that is to first crimp and then quickly solder, just enough to let the solder creep into the connector and the crimped strands of the wire. Too much solder or time and the connector will be ruined. I have found that this can give a tad better results musically than just crimping, but if you make the soldering job less than really perfect (technique, solder wire and temperature down to the exact degree Celcius), the result becomes worse than just crimping. In addition, the soldering job adds a "running in" period where the sound quality of the joint varies up and down for several months.
My recommendation in this case is simply: Don't bother. It's good as it is. The only way to really better it is to solder the wires directly to the circuit boards, without using connectors. This is what I do in my own designs and it clearly improves the sound. The drawback is that service procedures becomes a bit more time consuming if you have to remove wires from boards.
[Naturally, one should never do this on a product from another company. The warranty will instantly disappear and it's also possible that the manufacturer will refuse to service it once they see the modification.]
Just soldering the wires to the connectors results in a worse performance than a proper crimp. When crimping, it's essential to get the pressure just right; too little or too much sounds worse. A third option exists and that is to first crimp and then quickly solder, just enough to let the solder creep into the connector and the crimped strands of the wire. Too much solder or time and the connector will be ruined. I have found that this can give a tad better results musically than just crimping, but if you make the soldering job less than really perfect (technique, solder wire and temperature down to the exact degree Celcius), the result becomes worse than just crimping. In addition, the soldering job adds a "running in" period where the sound quality of the joint varies up and down for several months.
My recommendation in this case is simply: Don't bother. It's good as it is. The only way to really better it is to solder the wires directly to the circuit boards, without using connectors. This is what I do in my own designs and it clearly improves the sound. The drawback is that service procedures becomes a bit more time consuming if you have to remove wires from boards.
[Naturally, one should never do this on a product from another company. The warranty will instantly disappear and it's also possible that the manufacturer will refuse to service it once they see the modification.]
Thanks for comments, F.! What you mention as the only way
to improve things enough to justify the work: direct soldering to the
boards, is what I considered. Of course, you can stick your own
label to the box then and you are your own service. With the LK
tune box, for me it was worth the effort. With respect to connector
suppliers: There is a couple with fitting connector dimensions, but
I was looking for the exactly identical piece. And was surprised that
I couldn't find the supplier at the big distributors.
to improve things enough to justify the work: direct soldering to the
boards, is what I considered. Of course, you can stick your own
label to the box then and you are your own service. With the LK
tune box, for me it was worth the effort. With respect to connector
suppliers: There is a couple with fitting connector dimensions, but
I was looking for the exactly identical piece. And was surprised that
I couldn't find the supplier at the big distributors.