Hi Lejonklou
I was interested in your comments on the LP12 setup and the importance of the correct tightness for screws and bolts.
I have had an LP12 for about 25 years and have had it regularly serviced. However for the last few years I have had to do it myself (no local suitably qualified dealer). I have noticed a slight change in the tightness of for example the grub screw in the arm collar/pillar can have a big impact on the sound.
I realise that this is your business but are you able to give a guide as to the tightness of the important screws/bolts. Using my arm - an ittok - as an example should the collar/pillar screw be ultra tight, tight or 'mana' tight and what is the effect on the sound
Thanks for your help
Mike
Linn Tight
Moderator: Staff
Hi Mike!
I have never worked with Mana, so I am not sure what 'Mana tight' is, but each fastener has its optimal tightness and so far this has been neither loose nor according to that old expression 'Linn tight' (that I was told meant almost as hard as the materials could handle) but rather somewhere in between.
In the early 90's, I used to test and write down the optimal tightnesses in words, like "holding the short end of the blue key with right thumb and index finger, tighten as hard as I can". As some fasteners really made a big difference to the sound, I had a dream of one day measuring the tightness with a tool. Like people always did with their car engines.
Early last year, Thomas OK (on this forum) told me he did just that and then I knew I had to go down that route myself. It is not easy to share exact values, however, because all torque tools differ from one another. Even if you are using the same model, there can be significant differences between different species.
The arm height grub screw that you mention is one of the more important screws on the LP12. I have a good rule of thumb (that don't require special tools) that works here and that is:
* Insert an IN6 key with the long end into the screw.
* Holding the short end of the key with your thumb and index finger, tighten it hard.
* Turn the IN6 key around so that the short end goes into the screw.
* Holding the long end of the key, carefully tighten only one "notch". This means you only hear one "squeaky click". This is a very small movement of the key.
IF the grub screw has NOT been oiled, this method works great for Ekos and Ittok arms and gives a very good sound - quite close to a torque-tool optimised tightness. On the Akito, you should SKIP the last two steps, as it's bearings can easily be damaged.
I have never worked with Mana, so I am not sure what 'Mana tight' is, but each fastener has its optimal tightness and so far this has been neither loose nor according to that old expression 'Linn tight' (that I was told meant almost as hard as the materials could handle) but rather somewhere in between.
In the early 90's, I used to test and write down the optimal tightnesses in words, like "holding the short end of the blue key with right thumb and index finger, tighten as hard as I can". As some fasteners really made a big difference to the sound, I had a dream of one day measuring the tightness with a tool. Like people always did with their car engines.
Early last year, Thomas OK (on this forum) told me he did just that and then I knew I had to go down that route myself. It is not easy to share exact values, however, because all torque tools differ from one another. Even if you are using the same model, there can be significant differences between different species.
The arm height grub screw that you mention is one of the more important screws on the LP12. I have a good rule of thumb (that don't require special tools) that works here and that is:
* Insert an IN6 key with the long end into the screw.
* Holding the short end of the key with your thumb and index finger, tighten it hard.
* Turn the IN6 key around so that the short end goes into the screw.
* Holding the long end of the key, carefully tighten only one "notch". This means you only hear one "squeaky click". This is a very small movement of the key.
IF the grub screw has NOT been oiled, this method works great for Ekos and Ittok arms and gives a very good sound - quite close to a torque-tool optimised tightness. On the Akito, you should SKIP the last two steps, as it's bearings can easily be damaged.
It is the screw that sits in the arm collar and locks the height of the arm pillar.
If you had a competent retailer installing your Ekos 2, you should leave all the adjustments to him/her and keep on enjoying your records.
Mike is forced to do the LP12 setup himself and that's the reason we discussed this.
If you had a competent retailer installing your Ekos 2, you should leave all the adjustments to him/her and keep on enjoying your records.
Mike is forced to do the LP12 setup himself and that's the reason we discussed this.