As you may already know, the Shuko (European) Power One ran out of stock earlier this year. Since it's difficult and time consuming to make sure every detail becomes correct before ordering them, I decided not to go through it again. Chances are it might end up different than last time.
I have always liked the Volex cords that Linn have supplied with their equipment in recent years. In fact, I used to always bring both Power Ones and Volex cords with me on installations, to hear which would perform the best in each situation.
The Volex cords come in a number of varieties. Of the Shuko (European) models, Linn supply six different varieties and you never know which one you're going to get. The plug and the connector is the same, but the cable is one of three different brands and the direction is always haphazard. So in total six varieties.
Currently (March 2012), I think the best sounding version is this:
Plug: M2511A
Connector: V1625
Cable: H05VV-F 3G1.00mm2 <VDE> KEMA-KEUR CEBEC +S+S+S <ÖVE> (D) (S) (N) (FI) IEMMEQU S/370 SABS 1574 NF-USE TONGYUAN LF
Direction: Text running from plug (wall) to connector (HiFi unit)
I think the second best sounding version is this:
Plug: M2511A
Connector: V1625
Cable: H05VV-F 3G1.00mm2 <VDE> KEMA-KEUR +S+S+S <ÖVE> CEBEC IEMMEQU SABS 1574 (S) (N) (D) (FI) BAOHING GTSA-3 N14586 CE LF
Direction: Text running from plug (wall) to connector (HiFi unit)
EDIT: Updated my opinion and removed the offer where I sold seleted cords.
The best European power cord
Moderator: Staff
The best European power cord
Last edited by lejonklou on 2012-03-17 19:02, edited 2 times in total.
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rowlandhills
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I have tried! And I have recently found a new UK power cord for my own products, which sounds great. Unfortunately it's now an obsolete model and without a connector (something I don't need on my products as they have the cable soldered directly to the power supply).
I have made some attempts with fitting a connector to this UK cord, but so far it hasn't been a success. I find the Linn UK cord (with Baohing cable) a bit better, which it clearly isn't when both are compared without connectors. So the problem is to find and fit the right connector.
If I succeed, I will tell you about it. But as the model is obsolete, I need to keep a fair amount for my own products.
I have made some attempts with fitting a connector to this UK cord, but so far it hasn't been a success. I find the Linn UK cord (with Baohing cable) a bit better, which it clearly isn't when both are compared without connectors. So the problem is to find and fit the right connector.
If I succeed, I will tell you about it. But as the model is obsolete, I need to keep a fair amount for my own products.
Good news about the Euro power cable.
I have to say I'm not surprised about the difficulty you are having finding a good IEC connector. I have tried a few and none come close to the molded on V1625 that Volex put on the Linn cables - this despite the fact that I found a US AC plug that sounds better than the one Volex supply.
It is also interesting that there aren't anywhere near as many choices available in IEC connectors as there are for the other end. The plug I use for AC is made by Hubbell but they don't make a 15 amp IEC connector.
I have to say I'm not surprised about the difficulty you are having finding a good IEC connector. I have tried a few and none come close to the molded on V1625 that Volex put on the Linn cables - this despite the fact that I found a US AC plug that sounds better than the one Volex supply.
It is also interesting that there aren't anywhere near as many choices available in IEC connectors as there are for the other end. The plug I use for AC is made by Hubbell but they don't make a 15 amp IEC connector.
My experience matches yours, Thomas. In general, I find that the closer the part is to the product, the more important it is to the sound. So the connector is more important than the cable, which in turn is more important than the plug, which is more important than the distribution block.
In general, that is. I'm not sure if it applies when a part is really bad performing.
In general, that is. I'm not sure if it applies when a part is really bad performing.
Some factors that can influence the performance of power cords:
1. Cable length on power cords is an important parameter. A difference of just a few cm can make two otherwise identical cords sound different.
2. The cords do change a bit after having been run in. I find they get better and more relaxed sounding.
3. After several years, the plastics around the cable tend to stiffen. Gently bending the cable until it becomes more flexible does affect the sound in a positive way.
EDIT: Removed some old Q&A's.
1. Cable length on power cords is an important parameter. A difference of just a few cm can make two otherwise identical cords sound different.
2. The cords do change a bit after having been run in. I find they get better and more relaxed sounding.
3. After several years, the plastics around the cable tend to stiffen. Gently bending the cable until it becomes more flexible does affect the sound in a positive way.
EDIT: Removed some old Q&A's.
Last edited by lejonklou on 2012-03-17 18:57, edited 2 times in total.
Hey guys, my apologies for bringing up such an old topic, but I have registered just for this.
Recently I have managed to get my hands on some BaoHing powercords spec-ed exactly the same as listed by you, lejonklou. Well, at least the cable it is. The catch is for my current piece, the text is on the opposite direction, of all coincidences.
I have confidence that the store I've purchased this powercord from still have them in stock. However, I have no way of seeing the text runs before making purchases, therefore I am thinking of reterminating the powercord to correct the ends. I have gathered that ThomasOK mentioned that a Hubbell power plug will be a good replacement for the power plug end, however as of yet, similarly as ThomasOK I have yet to find any decent IEC connectors...
Are there any IEC connectors to be recommended by anyone, which you may think it works as well as the stock Volex molded IEC connector? I've seen a Marinco IEC, and I know Wattage produces some too, but I would love to hear anyone's experience on this.
I'll make a couple orders more soon... Hopefully out of sheer dumb luck I will end up receiving one which is correctly oriented.
PS: If I am posting on the wrong section, do feel free to correct and direct me to the right one... Afterall I was targeting to post under this thread actually. :)
Recently I have managed to get my hands on some BaoHing powercords spec-ed exactly the same as listed by you, lejonklou. Well, at least the cable it is. The catch is for my current piece, the text is on the opposite direction, of all coincidences.
I have confidence that the store I've purchased this powercord from still have them in stock. However, I have no way of seeing the text runs before making purchases, therefore I am thinking of reterminating the powercord to correct the ends. I have gathered that ThomasOK mentioned that a Hubbell power plug will be a good replacement for the power plug end, however as of yet, similarly as ThomasOK I have yet to find any decent IEC connectors...
Are there any IEC connectors to be recommended by anyone, which you may think it works as well as the stock Volex molded IEC connector? I've seen a Marinco IEC, and I know Wattage produces some too, but I would love to hear anyone's experience on this.
I'll make a couple orders more soon... Hopefully out of sheer dumb luck I will end up receiving one which is correctly oriented.
PS: If I am posting on the wrong section, do feel free to correct and direct me to the right one... Afterall I was targeting to post under this thread actually. :)
Hi TestCase and welcome here!
If you have a Volex cord with the cable in the worse sounding direction, there isn't much you can do about it. Especially the IEC connectors have (so far) proven impossible to replace without ruining the good sound. I haven't personally tried the Marinco and Wattgate connectors, mainly because they don't fit Linn Klimax products but also due to my immense scepticism of any mains related product that is labelled "audio" - so far all that I've tried have been really terrible.
I have, however, tried all other IEC connectors I've been able to find. And I've tried fitting the best one of them to the power cable in a lot of different ways. The best result I was able to achieve wasn't even close to the crimped and molded original Volex connector.
I think the importance of the cable direction varies between cable brands, so if you get the chance, give both directions a listen.
By the way, the later Volex Tongyuans with direction from plug to connector are currently my favourites among the European cords. I find them slightly above the Baohings and also above the new European Longwell cord. For some reason, the really early European Tongyuans don't sound as good - I don't know in what way they differ.
If you have a Volex cord with the cable in the worse sounding direction, there isn't much you can do about it. Especially the IEC connectors have (so far) proven impossible to replace without ruining the good sound. I haven't personally tried the Marinco and Wattgate connectors, mainly because they don't fit Linn Klimax products but also due to my immense scepticism of any mains related product that is labelled "audio" - so far all that I've tried have been really terrible.
I have, however, tried all other IEC connectors I've been able to find. And I've tried fitting the best one of them to the power cable in a lot of different ways. The best result I was able to achieve wasn't even close to the crimped and molded original Volex connector.
I think the importance of the cable direction varies between cable brands, so if you get the chance, give both directions a listen.
By the way, the later Volex Tongyuans with direction from plug to connector are currently my favourites among the European cords. I find them slightly above the Baohings and also above the new European Longwell cord. For some reason, the really early European Tongyuans don't sound as good - I don't know in what way they differ.
Thanks for the welcome, Lejonklou!
Guess getting a decent powercord isn't as easy as many thinks. Haha. I can identify with the experience where a more expensive powercord isn't necessary better than your stock powercord - Especially when your equipment came with a fairly good stock Tongyuan one (I do have one, but mine is the one which doesn't comes with ground, 2G 0.75mm2 I reckon). The Tongyuan actually sounded better than my QED cord priced at about 40 quids, and just a slight bit less controlled than my Nordost powercord.
Thanks for the tip guys. I find some Wattgates offering fairly fishy as well. The Marinco I was talking about has the model label 320, which looks exactly the same as the Wattage 320i. Whether there are any other differences beyond that, I have no idea. But I know Marinco produces some hospital grade power plugs... Hubbell power plugs, I have heard many positive results from using it, also read some feedback from ThomasOk's previous posts.
It's gonna be problematic looking for a good IEC connector then, or heck looking for one to experiment with... From what I gathered, Wattgate, Marinco and Schurter produces IEC connectors but that's about it..
Hmmm.. I guess the hunt goes on. Shall update if I have anything new popping up. :) Thanks again.
Guess getting a decent powercord isn't as easy as many thinks. Haha. I can identify with the experience where a more expensive powercord isn't necessary better than your stock powercord - Especially when your equipment came with a fairly good stock Tongyuan one (I do have one, but mine is the one which doesn't comes with ground, 2G 0.75mm2 I reckon). The Tongyuan actually sounded better than my QED cord priced at about 40 quids, and just a slight bit less controlled than my Nordost powercord.
Thanks for the tip guys. I find some Wattgates offering fairly fishy as well. The Marinco I was talking about has the model label 320, which looks exactly the same as the Wattage 320i. Whether there are any other differences beyond that, I have no idea. But I know Marinco produces some hospital grade power plugs... Hubbell power plugs, I have heard many positive results from using it, also read some feedback from ThomasOk's previous posts.
It's gonna be problematic looking for a good IEC connector then, or heck looking for one to experiment with... From what I gathered, Wattgate, Marinco and Schurter produces IEC connectors but that's about it..
Hmmm.. I guess the hunt goes on. Shall update if I have anything new popping up. :) Thanks again.
So Chaps, where are we all with this thread then?
Is there a better cord out there to build or buy which will improve on my Lingo chord or my Naim cords other than the fancy Naim Powerlines?
Feeling the need to tinker.
Also what about recommendations for a good sounding distribution board for all my kit back to the wall socket?
Regards
Flat
Is there a better cord out there to build or buy which will improve on my Lingo chord or my Naim cords other than the fancy Naim Powerlines?
Feeling the need to tinker.
Also what about recommendations for a good sounding distribution board for all my kit back to the wall socket?
Regards
Flat
Do you mean electrical distribution board (i.e. something an electrician would fit)?
If you search the forum there are previous threads and comments. To best of my memory, nothing betters the Linn ones in terms of musicality.
ThomasOK has previously recommended the Vidar burn-in machine. I've sent some cables to him for burn in and it does work on the mains cables, but not greatly so - definitely worthwhile on Silver ICs though.
I want to get a dedicated fused spur or ring installed at my place. That's supposed to help. Have you already done that?
I prefer my Linn gear connected to a single extension block, so running off one wall socket. Sounds more musical with source nearest the cable, then Linto, then pre etc etc. But the block needs to be very simple with no surge protection etc. Cheaper the better probably. However, wouldn't be surprised if this doesn't apply to Naim.
If you search the forum there are previous threads and comments. To best of my memory, nothing betters the Linn ones in terms of musicality.
ThomasOK has previously recommended the Vidar burn-in machine. I've sent some cables to him for burn in and it does work on the mains cables, but not greatly so - definitely worthwhile on Silver ICs though.
I want to get a dedicated fused spur or ring installed at my place. That's supposed to help. Have you already done that?
I prefer my Linn gear connected to a single extension block, so running off one wall socket. Sounds more musical with source nearest the cable, then Linto, then pre etc etc. But the block needs to be very simple with no surge protection etc. Cheaper the better probably. However, wouldn't be surprised if this doesn't apply to Naim.
So in my case nearest cable Radikal.Renew DS,Preamp,Tundra?Charlie1 wrote:Do you mean electrical distribution board (i.e. something an electrician would fit)?
If you search the forum there are previous threads and comments. To best of my memory, nothing betters the Linn ones in terms of musicality.
ThomasOK has previously recommended the Vidar burn-in machine. I've sent some cables to him for burn in and it does work on the mains cables, but not greatly so - definitely worthwhile on Silver ICs though.
I want to get a dedicated fused spur or ring installed at my place. That's supposed to help. Have you already done that?
I prefer my Linn gear connected to a single extension block, so running off one wall socket. Sounds more musical with source nearest the cable, then Linto, then pre etc etc. But the block needs to be very simple with no surge protection etc. Cheaper the better probably. However, wouldn't be surprised if this doesn't apply to Naim.
Mike
Yep, that's it. Let us know how you get on if you try it.
I seem to recall you are in Sweden. Fredrik used to sell some extension blocks that he found were very good. Going back a bit now though, but you could ask for details.
Here's an old thread, if you're bored...
http://www.lejonklou.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=271
I seem to recall you are in Sweden. Fredrik used to sell some extension blocks that he found were very good. Going back a bit now though, but you could ask for details.
Here's an old thread, if you're bored...
http://www.lejonklou.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=271
Shock Horror!
For a laugh, I thought I would try something based on a Lingo thread. Where the OP said he preferred the Armageddon not just because it sounded better but because the rest of his Naim gear sounded better with out the Lingo and the hash it caused.
I have two distribution boards one for my Hifi, a six way, plain and simple with 2 mm chord all wired up and and soldered inside the block by myself and with all fuseing bypassed.
The other is a Monster power surge and cleaner distribution board for the Home Cinema. This holds the Sky Hd box, the Blu-ray player, the WII and the Sony 52" TV.
When I first got the Monster board with the TV I tried connecting the Hifi, but whilst there was a cleaner sound the tune went south in a big way so I kept with my simple self built 6 way block with no protection, fuses or other additions. Result, tune fully back on board.
So tonight I played a a couple of sides to warm everything up. Then I played a very tuneful Rosie Vela track, "Magic Smile" then repeated the first few bars again, then unplugged the Lingo and plugged into the Monster board, so that the Lingo is now totally isolated from the rest of the Hifi.
Shock, Horror, LP12 seems cleaner and more detailed and the tune easier to follow. However, the CDS has leaped forward in musicality.
Go figure! Think I might get hold of a Geddon and compare it to the Lingo. Although at some point I guess a Radikal will solve the issue. Unless one of you is going to tell me that you prefer the Armageddon to the Radikal???
Sammy
I have two distribution boards one for my Hifi, a six way, plain and simple with 2 mm chord all wired up and and soldered inside the block by myself and with all fuseing bypassed.
The other is a Monster power surge and cleaner distribution board for the Home Cinema. This holds the Sky Hd box, the Blu-ray player, the WII and the Sony 52" TV.
When I first got the Monster board with the TV I tried connecting the Hifi, but whilst there was a cleaner sound the tune went south in a big way so I kept with my simple self built 6 way block with no protection, fuses or other additions. Result, tune fully back on board.
So tonight I played a a couple of sides to warm everything up. Then I played a very tuneful Rosie Vela track, "Magic Smile" then repeated the first few bars again, then unplugged the Lingo and plugged into the Monster board, so that the Lingo is now totally isolated from the rest of the Hifi.
Shock, Horror, LP12 seems cleaner and more detailed and the tune easier to follow. However, the CDS has leaped forward in musicality.
Go figure! Think I might get hold of a Geddon and compare it to the Lingo. Although at some point I guess a Radikal will solve the issue. Unless one of you is going to tell me that you prefer the Armageddon to the Radikal???
Sammy
Interesting, Sammy.
I know that others have reported success when moving the Lingo away from a single power strip (distribution board) that powers the rest of the system. It didn't work for me when I last tried it, but I'm not ruling out that it can sometimes work.
Mains issues are often more tricky than one thinks, as there are a lot of possible combinations. I find that when starting to separate mains connections into groups (two or more), it's usually necessary to keep one mains ground that goes to all groups. If you split the mains ground too far from the system, you get bad sound and often other problems as well.
I know that others have reported success when moving the Lingo away from a single power strip (distribution board) that powers the rest of the system. It didn't work for me when I last tried it, but I'm not ruling out that it can sometimes work.
Mains issues are often more tricky than one thinks, as there are a lot of possible combinations. I find that when starting to separate mains connections into groups (two or more), it's usually necessary to keep one mains ground that goes to all groups. If you split the mains ground too far from the system, you get bad sound and often other problems as well.
Tested now back and forth with the powercables i think it sounded best with my AK,Radikal,RDS,Tundra?lejonklou wrote:Interesting, Sammy.
I know that others have reported success when moving the Lingo away from a single power strip (distribution board) that powers the rest of the system. It didn't work for me when I last tried it, but I'm not ruling out that it can sometimes work.
Mains issues are often more tricky than one thinks, as there are a lot of possible combinations. I find that when starting to separate mains connections into groups (two or more), it's usually necessary to keep one mains ground that goes to all groups. If you split the mains ground too far from the system, you get bad sound and often other problems as well.
Mike
I have a dedicated circuit for my hifi and my Lingo sounds better when on the same circuit as the rest of the gear as well, I use Exposure electronics.lejonklou wrote:Interesting, Sammy.
I know that others have reported success when moving the Lingo away from a single power strip (distribution board) that powers the rest of the system. It didn't work for me when I last tried it, but I'm not ruling out that it can sometimes work.
Thanks Mike! I was years since I last tried this, so I'm going to give your order a try.minge wrote:Tested now back and forth with the powercables i think it sounded best with my AK,Radikal,RDS,Tundra?
Thanks John! Another vote for keeping the Lingo with the rest, then.John wrote:I have a dedicated circuit for my hifi and my Lingo sounds better when on the same circuit as the rest of the gear as well, I use Exposure electronics.
Still haven't gotten around to trying some new power strips that I've collected. Will spend some time on this soon.