Active Kan 1s

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Charlie1
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Active Kan 1s

Post by Charlie1 »

Managed to find some Linn-converted active Kan 1s with the help of my dealer.

They are quite early serial numbers so (in theory) have the Scanspeak tweeter. Grills are still firmly attached.

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The seller purchased a Kan 1 crossover on ebay many years ago but never used it. Any idea how I'd connect it and which connections go where? Don't want to damage the tweeters.

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Do you think the short cables need connecting to the amp?
anthony
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Re: Active Kan 1s

Post by anthony »

Yes it says ip input.
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Re: Active Kan 1s

Post by tokenbrit »

You found Linn converted active Kan 1s and you want to convert them to passive?

If you're worried about damaging the tweeters, are you going to get the crossover(s?) checked first, given the age of the caps?
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El Mero Mero
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Re: Active Kan 1s

Post by El Mero Mero »

Amazing! I guess you need a SNAXO 2-4. You can use a battery to check which inputs are for the woofer.
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Re: Active Kan 1s

Post by Charlie1 »

anthony wrote: 2022-04-10 15:39 Yes it says ip input.
Thanks Tony!
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Re: Active Kan 1s

Post by Charlie1 »

tokenbrit wrote: 2022-04-10 17:40 You found Linn converted active Kan 1s and you want to convert them to passive
I don't have all the Naim gear yet to get them working active and just want to reassure myself that they work.
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Re: Active Kan 1s

Post by Spannko »

You’ve got two inputs (in the middle of the board) marked IP+ and IP-. The outputs are pre-wired HF+/- and LF+/-. The wires can be screwed to the binding posts to test the speakers. Connecting to the input terminals will be the most difficult thing to do. Maybe just for testing you could get a couple of alligator clips with 4mm sockets. Doing this will mean that you don’t need to do any soldering. Before connecting to the Kans, plug the HF+ and HF- to a pair of passive speakers. The passive crossover will prevent you from doing any damage to the speakers. If you’ve done it right you’ll only hear high frequencies coming through the passive speaker. Then, connect the HF+(red wire) to the far left red terminal. Then connect the HF- (black wire) to the next terminal in line (black terminal). If these are the bass inputs you’ll hear muted high frequencies. If you hear bass, you’ve just avoided blowing a tweeter! This is unlikely though, given that everything is marked up. Providing you only hear high frequencies, it’s safe to transfer the wires onto the other pair of inputs and plug the other two wires into the LF inputs.

EDIT: I didn’t notice the two short wires! But yes, connect them to the amp.
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Re: Active Kan 1s

Post by Spannko »

El Mero Mero wrote: 2022-04-10 18:23 Amazing! I guess you need a SNAXO 2-4. You can use a battery to check which inputs are for the woofer.
Don’t do this! DC across the tweeters could damage them. The battery test only works on passive speakers (where a capacitor protects the tweeter) and the Kan grille is glued in place so you can’t see the bass cone movement anyway.
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Re: Active Kan 1s

Post by Charlie1 »

Thanks Spannko! Really helpful.

I'll try to find some alligator clips as you described.
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Re: Active Kan 1s

Post by Charlie1 »

Spannko wrote: 2022-04-10 22:31 You’ve got two inputs (in the middle of the board) marked IP+ and IP-. The outputs are pre-wired HF+/- and LF+/-. The wires can be screwed to the binding posts to test the speakers. Connecting to the input terminals will be the most difficult thing to do. Maybe just for testing you could get a couple of alligator clips with 4mm sockets. Doing this will mean that you don’t need to do any soldering. Before connecting to the Kans, plug the HF+ and HF- to a pair of passive speakers. The passive crossover will prevent you from doing any damage to the speakers. If you’ve done it right you’ll only hear high frequencies coming through the passive speaker. Then, connect the HF+(red wire) to the far left red terminal. Then connect the HF- (black wire) to the next terminal in line (black terminal). If these are the bass inputs you’ll hear muted high frequencies. If you hear bass, you’ve just avoided blowing a tweeter! This is unlikely though, given that everything is marked up. Providing you only hear high frequencies, it’s safe to transfer the wires onto the other pair of inputs and plug the other two wires into the LF inputs.
That worked brilliantly - thanks Spannko!

Used a pair of Tukans first and then the active Kans which appear to have 4 working drive units that sound OK.

Bass on left, treble on right, in case anyone was curious :)

Something interesting I found out today is that Oskar Wronding of Hiquphon was the original engineer at Scanspeak.
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Re: Active Kan 1s

Post by Spannko »

You’re welcome! And ….. I notice that the tweeters he designed are due to be “updated” by Scanspeak this summer.
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Re: Active Kan 1s

Post by Charlie1 »

Oh, didn't know that
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Re: Active Kan 1s

Post by Spannko »

Just in case I’m confusing you, Not Oskar’s Hiquphon’s, the original Scanspeak’s which Linn used before switching to the Hiquphon’s.
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Re: Active Kan 1s

Post by ThomasOK »

Spannko's advice was quite thorough. Just in case someone else wanted to test something similar you can just connect the outputs one at a time to the woofer and see which section puts out highs, although on this board they are marked. Since these Kans have five way binging posts you could just test using the bare with to the posts.
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Charlie1
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Re: Active Kan 1s

Post by Charlie1 »

Thanks Thomas!
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Re: Active Kan 1s

Post by ThomasOK »

For something I said didn't exist it didn't take you long to find them! :-)
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Re: Active Kan 1s

Post by Charlie1 »

Lol

My dealer had mentioned a couple of years ago that he had another customer with a pair in storage. So I suppose I had to be ready in a way. And lucky he was willing to part with them too of course
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Re: Active Kan 1s

Post by Spannko »

ThomasOK wrote: 2022-04-12 19:32 Spannko's advice was quite thorough. Just in case someone else wanted to test something similar you can just connect the outputs one at a time to the woofer and see which section puts out highs, although on this board they are marked. Since these Kans have five way binging posts you could just test using the bare with to the posts.
Quite right Thomas! But since the bass input wasn’t marked on the Kans, I thought it better to play safe and check with passive speakers first.
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