JBL 3677

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Re: JBL 3677

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matthias wrote:
ThomasOK wrote:So using my original distance of somewhere near 1300mm I moved them closer together trying very small movements centered around 1172mm and spanning 1160mm to 1180mm. I ended up with 1166mm as optimum.
Thomas,
is there a certain musical quality you get when arriving at the optimal distance between the speakers?

Matt
To me it seems pretty much the same as from setting the distance to the back wall, although maybe not as much. Things fall into focus better and the music has an improved flow or pace to it.
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Re: JBL 3677

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ThomasOK wrote:
matthias wrote:
ThomasOK wrote:So using my original distance of somewhere near 1300mm I moved them closer together trying very small movements centered around 1172mm and spanning 1160mm to 1180mm. I ended up with 1166mm as optimum.
Thomas,
is there a certain musical quality you get when arriving at the optimal distance between the speakers?
Matt
To me it seems pretty much the same as from setting the distance to the back wall, although maybe not as much. Things fall into focus better and the music has an improved flow or pace to it.
So is it the best to optimise the distance to the back wall at first and then the distance between the speakers?

Matt
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Re: JBL 3677

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matthias wrote:
Music Lover wrote:I have my 3677's running since 20days and they sound great now, better than my 242mkI.
Warning! they will sound very bad the first days. Stiff, no bass, no dynamics, high frequencies that destroy your ears. But give them HARD beating 24/7 and after 2weeks it's heavenly good.
Guys,
I have now 3677s as well and like them. Ofil stands are ordered too.

My question:

What is best method to connect the speaker cable to the stock barrier strip?

Clamping the bare wire?
Soldering copper ring spades to the speaker cable?
Soldering Knekt bananas to the speaker cable and trying to put the bananas into the barrier strip?
Something else?

Thanks

Matt
Bare wire. Using connectors add places for resistance. Every connection you add can be seen on a TDR. make as few as possible. Banana plugs are for guys who swap a lot.
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Re: JBL 3677

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matthias wrote:Hi,

it would be very nice to know what the 3677 owners here found to be the best distance between the back of the speakers and the wall.
Many thanks.

Matt

I've owned the 3677 twice and own them currently. I've had extensive time with them. Distance from wall is based on SBIR. When using a sub say crossed at 80hz 3.5' gets the SBIR null below the crossover point to the subs. The other option is as close to the wall as possible to raise the null in frequency so you can absorb it.

Of course the 3677 is designed for a Baffle wall and completely gets rid of SBIR, increases midbass dynamics and imaging.

AS far as sound stage width based on distance and toe in with create the sound stage. 30 degrees is the common recommendation.Image
Last edited by cdy2179 on 2017-02-07 20:12, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: JBL 3677

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matthias wrote: So is it the best to optimise the distance to the back wall at first and then the distance between the speakers?

Matt
That would be my recommendation. I think it makes a bigger difference although I am open to differing opinions (meaning I haven't researched it thoroughly).
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Re: JBL 3677

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cdy2179 wrote:
matthias wrote:Hi,

it would be very nice to know what the 3677 owners here found to be the best distance between the back of the speakers and the wall.
Many thanks.

Matt

I've owned the 3677 twice and own them currently. I've had extensive time with them. Distance from wall is based on SBIR. When using a sub say crossed at 80hz 3.5' gets the SBIR null below the crossover point to the subs. The other option is as close to the wall as possible to raise the null in frequency to absorb it.

Of course the 3677 is designed for a Baffle wall and completely gets rid of SBIR, increases midbass dynamics and imaging.

AS far as sound stage width based on distance and toe in with create the sound stage. 30 degrees is the common recommendation.Image
There is no way calculating the correct distance from back wall, you must listen for the best position.
Same goes for toe in. I have found zero toe in to be the best in my room.

Erik.
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Re: JBL 3677

Post by Erik »

ThomasOK wrote:
matthias wrote: So is it the best to optimise the distance to the back wall at first and then the distance between the speakers?

Matt
That would be my recommendation. I think it makes a bigger difference although I am open to differing opinions (meaning I haven't researched it thoroughly).
Affirmative. And I use to do one speaker at a time as they sometimes ends up at slightly different distances from the back wall.

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Re: JBL 3677

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Erik wrote:i,


There is no way calculating the correct distance from back wall, you must listen for the best position.
Same goes for toe in. I have found zero toe in to be the best in my room.

Erik.
That's actually not true. It's scientifically proven and basic acoustic science. As you move the speaker toward and away from the wall you are altering the place where the null is. This is the primary purpose of people pulling away from the wall. Say if your 2' from the wall you'll have weak output around 150hz, so weak midbass. As you move farther out midbass will improve and around 3.5' you're getting fuller midbass as the null is getting below 80hz and you can cross to a sub above the null.

http://arqen.com/acoustics-101/speaker- ... erference/

Image


Image

You have 3 options to get around it.. move out past 3.5' and cross to a sub at 80hz, go against the wall to raise the SBIR freq so it is high enough to absorb with 3" (or more depending on distance from the wall) absorption or a baffle wall which is how the 3677 was intended to be installed.

Have any of you guys actually measured your responses to see what's happening in room?

Of course toe in should be trial and error but depends on how the room is treated etc.
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Re: JBL 3677

Post by Erik »

cdy2179 wrote:
Erik wrote:i,


There is no way calculating the correct distance from back wall, you must listen for the best position.
Same goes for toe in. I have found zero toe in to be the best in my room.

Erik.
That's actually not true. It's scientifically proven and basic acoustic science. As you move the speaker toward and away from the wall you are altering the place where the null is. This is the primary purpose of people pulling away from the wall. Say if your 2' from the wall you'll have weak output around 150hz, so weak midbass. As you move farther out midbass will improve and around 3.5' you're getting fuller midbass as the null is getting below 80hz and you can cross to a sub above the null.

http://arqen.com/acoustics-101/speaker- ... erference/

Image


Image

You have 3 options to get around it.. move out past 3.5' and cross to a sub at 80hz, go against the wall to raise the SBIR freq so it is high enough to absorb with 3" (or more depending on distance from the wall) absorption or a baffle wall which is how the 3677 was intended to be installed.

Have any of you guys actually measured your responses to see what's happening in room?

Of course toe in should be trial and error but depends on how the room is treated etc.
Sorry for being blunt, but that's academic B/S.
Musicality has nothing to do with a flat response or standing waves.
If you are using a sub, the best way to set it up is to listen to the sub alone to get it positioned and then position the main speakers. All of the positioning has to be done by ear.

/Erik
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Re: JBL 3677

Post by cdy2179 »

Erik wrote:
cdy2179 wrote:
Erik wrote:i,


There is no way calculating the correct distance from back wall, you must listen for the best position.
Same goes for toe in. I have found zero toe in to be the best in my room.

Erik.
That's actually not true. It's scientifically proven and basic acoustic science. As you move the speaker toward and away from the wall you are altering the place where the null is. This is the primary purpose of people pulling away from the wall. Say if your 2' from the wall you'll have weak output around 150hz, so weak midbass. As you move farther out midbass will improve and around 3.5' you're getting fuller midbass as the null is getting below 80hz and you can cross to a sub above the null.

http://arqen.com/acoustics-101/speaker- ... erference/

Image


Image

You have 3 options to get around it.. move out past 3.5' and cross to a sub at 80hz, go against the wall to raise the SBIR freq so it is high enough to absorb with 3" (or more depending on distance from the wall) absorption or a baffle wall which is how the 3677 was intended to be installed.

Have any of you guys actually measured your responses to see what's happening in room?

Of course toe in should be trial and error but depends on how the room is treated etc.
Sorry for being blunt, but that's academic B/S.
Musicality has nothing to do with a flat response or standing waves.
If you are using a sub, the best way to set it up is to listen to the sub alone to get it positioned and then position the main speakers. All of the positioning has to be done by ear.

/Erik
This isn't about the subs but the mains response. If you want info on subwoofer placement here ya go. I know some use the crawl some just listen but in reality if you want it accurate and know it's accurate there's more to it as those methods are really geared more towards new guys and just getting it somewhat close if you're lucky. For those who strive for perfection this is right up their alley.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-s ... -info.html

Anyways back to SBIR.

It has to do with a null right smack in the mid bass or the 3677. You're just moving the null around to where it sounds best and living with where it's least destructive instead of fixing it all together.

I was just saying the comment you can't calculate where a speaker should go in reference to the front wall was incorrect. Which it is as anyone can easily calculate it if you understand how SBIR works. If you guys measured, installed some acoustic panels, combo panels etc.. you'd really hear what this speaker is capable of. Sure final tweaks (toe in etc) should be done by ear but you can't ignore what the room does to acoustic waves. There is a lot of science that can help you guys if you choose to implement some of it. Recording studios, Theater, High end Home theater, High End demo rooms all use it.. hint hint.
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Re: JBL 3677

Post by Azazello »

Please read the rules. And please also understand that I will delete all further discussion that doesn't stem from evaluation with Tune Method. Feel welcome to stay and learn about it. But don't waste your time trying to argue against the foundation of the forum.
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Re: JBL 3677

Post by ThomasOK »

There was an interesting question a while back that made me do some thinking and research. It was basically “What makes the JBL 3677s sound so good?” For the most part I am all about the music and if it works it works. But I have also been into the Hi-Fi hobby for over 45 years and am mechanically inclined so I do try to figure out how things work, hence the torque system and other things. So I started to think about why these speakers, which seemed to me initially to be a most unlikely reproducer of music when I first saw the photos, are in actuality one of the best I have ever heard. I did come up with some theories and discoveries that at least indicate some of the possible reasons why they sound good and I thought I would share them.

The first thing that occurred to me, which I touched on earlier, is the fact that the 15” bass/mid driver covers the range from 40Hz to 1200Hz. This is a very wide range and covers pretty much the full vocal range as well as the range of the fundamentals of most musical instruments, although there are, of course, several which can go higher. By not having the crossover interrupt this range and having the fundamentals mostly come from the same driver they are more homogenous in their sound. But there are also other advantages to this driver that probably have much to do with it being designed for the cinema where vocal intelligibility is paramount. The combination of this driver having a 15” cone and having its low end limited to 40Hz are both likely to mean that the cone itself doesn’t have to move very far to reproduce the full range it is called upon to do – even at quite high levels. If the driver can do its work with relatively small excursions then there is less Doppler effect on the frequencies at the higher end of the range – I would expect an order of magnitude less than what would be common with the typical smaller drivers covering a similar range. This could account for the very expressive midrange many of us have enjoyed with this speaker.

But there is more going on than just the 15” driver. The wide baffle. 26.5” in this case, is another interesting factor and one that a number of other companies have used. Indeed there seems to be a bit of a resurgence in wide baffle two ways with high efficiency and large bass drivers. There have also been some quite popular wide baffle speakers in the past including the iconic original Quad ESL at 31”H x 34.5”W and the Warfedale SFB/3 at 31”H x 36”W. But there is the Wolf von Langa Black and White modernization of the Warfedale at 35”W, the Voxativ Ampeggio Due at 47”W, the Sonus faber Stradivari at 26”W, the ATC EL150 at 25.6”W, the DeVore Orangutan 96 at 18”W and the Heco Direkt at 17.3”W and I’m sure others I’m not aware of. The wide baffle gives a different type of wave launch and also keeps any diffraction effects farther from the drivers which should make them less problematic. An interesting note here is a question and answer from a review of the Heco Direkt in Hi-Fi Choice. Here is the text of that:

“CW: Who is the Direkt designed for, and what was the sonic brief?

SF: The Direkt was made for those whose first priority is reproducing the purest qualities of music. Our goal was to achieve an open and transparent performance with excellent dynamic attack. Some people call this a ‘live’ sound character. I would prefer to call it accurate and not overdamped. Inspiration came from cinema and hi-fi speakers of the fifties to seventies. The combination of wide baffle and an oversized woofer/midrange driver enables us to create a highly coherent, full-bodied sound without any of the side effects that could reduce transparency.”

Sounds like an interesting and familiar idea to me. But there is another thing to consider here and that is the horn tweeter. I was honestly surprised at how smooth and natural the highs sounded coming from this horn tweeter with a titanium dome driving it. Both the metallic dome and the horn loading made me expect brightness and coloration but I find the sound quite natural. The sounds of cymbals are amazing with great tonal differentiation of hits on the different parts of the cymbal (yeah, I’m starting to sound like a Hi-Fi reviewer there) and really excellent tonality without the splashiness I would have expected – as long as you get them at the right height, which is crucial. There may be a technical reason why the high-frequencies on the 3677s sound so good. I remember a white paper from either Edgar Villchur, the inventor of the acoustic suspension speaker and founder of Acoustic Research, or the co-founder Henry Kloss, who went on to found KLH and Advent. I’ve tried to find the white paper on the web but haven’t had much luck. But anyway, one of the concepts covered was the proper high frequency curve. It was mentioned that your ear is known to be more sensitive to peaks than to dips. They said that it was particularly sensitive to peaks in the highs. Because of this it was felt that the most musically natural sounding speakers would have the levels of the high frequencies reduced so that the peaks of the tweeter were at the same level as the average level of the midband. Designing a speaker to have the same average level all the way up would make it sound bright. This was an accepted design criteria for many speaker manufacturers. I remember a speaker clinic in 1980 where an Ohio speaker manufacturer would measure any speaker you brought in. I brought in my Isobariks and was told that it was about the most ideal frequency response they had ever seen (I still have the graph). The highs were indeed shelved down about 2dB from the midrange which this company also commented was ideal. It would not surprise me if a lot of modern speaker designers are not aware of this theory as many of the designs out there do sound unnaturally bright while measuring relatively flat. Now the JBLs are not the most extended of speakers stating that they rolloff over 12kHz. However, I notice no loss of musical highs but certainly an absence of the oppressive brightness some designs have. I did find a set of curves from somebody who tried to bring the highs up by replacing the 2.5uF cap at C4 with a 6.8uF version and it did indeed bring it up a little. But in his frequency response curves I noticed that even unchanged the high frequencies were more extended than I had expected. Indeed after the small peak he showed at about 4600kHz had settled down a little above 5kHz the frequency response extended over 15kHz only 3dB down. And it is indeed shelved down just a little bit from the midrange. Then it does drop rather quickly being another 10dB down at 20kHz. So there is a loss of the extreme high frequencies, but most of the treble is likely right where it should be, which is just how it sounds to me: smooth, natural, informative and very musical.

But the horn loaded tweeter with the 15” woofer and wide baffle have other technical benefits and they have to do with the directivity of the speaker. This is something I bumped into when looking at various forums for a bit more info on the 3677s and its drivers. Now the explanation is quite technical and pretty involved so I don’t plan on doing anything more here than brushing on the basics so forgive me if I am not perfectly accurate in my simplification – I still think you’ll get the idea. For those who want to explore it more deeply you should check out this link which is a more in-depth explanation of the design and history of “Uniform-Directivity Loudspeakers”:

http://www.pispeakers.com/Pi_Speakers_Info.pdf

It turns out that there is another Hi-Fi subculture that is big on these "constant directivity" designs. The basic idea is that a direct radiator tweeter has a directivity that changes with frequency and also creates lobes where its range overlaps with the radiation of the bass/mid driver. These differences in directivity plus interaction artifacts mean that the overall in room response of the speaker changes quite a bit with frequency due to room reflections varying a lot with frequency and mediocre driver blending. Interestingly, the proposed solution is to use a horn loaded tweeter where the main goal of the horn is directivity control rather than just efficiency improvement. The first constant directivity horns apparently came out in the 70s and the ideal is supposed to be a horn/waveguide with a dispersion of 90° horizontal with about 45° vertical. The horn itself, because of its design forces the waves coming out of it to have this dispersion regardless of frequency so it is very uniform. But why these dispersion characteristics? Because the 90° horizontal gives the same dispersion in the crossover region that a properly matched bass/midrange driver will have, making the blend more seamless. Meanwhile the approximately 45° vertical dispersion will reduce the reflections of the high frequencies off the ceiling and floor and will give a lobe when overlapped with the bass/mid driver that covers all normal listening heights. In addition the rectangular horn with the long dimension horizontal allows the tweeter driver to be close enough to the bass/mid driver to also give a better blend and proper mixed dispersion characteristics.

So how does this relate to the JBL 3677? Well it turns out that the 3677 horn, I believe the 2373, is a waveguide with a dispersion of 90° horizontal and 40° vertical! And it is positioned, as recommended, close to the bass/mid driver for proper dispersion characteristics. It also turns out that a properly matched mid/bass driver will be either 15” or 12” to match the horns' 90° dispersion in a crossover region of about 1kHz. The person who put together the above information, Wayne Parham, has been making a number of these Uniform Directivity loudspeakers in finished form and kits for years and has quite a following. His top two-way model, the Four Pi speaker, has one of his horns with a 15” driver and a large port on the front. A JBL bass/mid driver is an upgrade option although a different model than the one in the 3677. He also at one time used the same JBL compression driver and horn as we have but now uses a horn he is having built.

Now I don’t really know how all these factors come together to make a really good speaker like the JBL 3677 and which ones carry the most weight. Obviously the quality of the drivers – which in these is very high – and the work put into the crossover for proper blending, which has been done quite well as we have found, are of primary importance. The cabinet, while not particularly pretty, has also been quite well made (excepting the strange front panel difference in my pair). And the design decisions about the drivers and crossover appear to be optimized for midrange clarity and uncompressed dynamic expression. But the combination of a wide baffle design with close wall loading and constant directivity characteristics should mean that these speakers are more uniform in their power response and tend to excite room modes less than most other types of speakers.

Apparently this all comes together to make one really fine and quite musical speaker and an unusually low price for this level of performance. (Were I using reviewer speak I would call it an unprecedented value). It would be interesting to see what others think about some of these thoughts and ideas that appear to have been implemented in the 3677s.
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Re: JBL 3677

Post by beck »

A very good read indeed stuffed with interesting information (have read it several times). I absolutely agree that it sounds like a very good speaker listening to the clips on this forum.
I only have one nagging question about this speaker: It was made to be placed inside a wall? How does this impact on its performance? Would it perform better if we cound use it the same way at home? What kind of sound would originally be expected to come from this speaker and how does this sound compare to what you are getting at home now? Is it all just getting better or are we also loosing something else?
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Re: JBL 3677

Post by matthias »

beck wrote:A very good read indeed stuffed with interesting information (have read it several times). I absolutely agree that it sounds like a very good speaker listening to the clips on this forum.
I only have one nagging question about this speaker: It was made to be placed inside a wall? How does this impact on its performance? Would it perform better if we cound use it the same way at home? What kind of sound would originally be expected to come from this speaker and how does this sound compare to what you are getting at home now? Is it all just getting better or are we also loosing something else?
AFAIK, it was designed not to be placed inside a wall, but behind a cinema screen.
I did not try to place a cinema screen right before it, but in my living room it is around 11cm from the wall and 44cm above the ground and I like the sound AND the look.

Matt
Last edited by matthias on 2017-02-20 10:18, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: JBL 3677

Post by beck »

matthias wrote:
beck wrote:A very good read indeed stuffed with interesting information (have read it several times). I absolutely agree that it sounds like a very good speaker listening to the clips on this forum.
I only have one nagging question about this speaker: It was made to be placed inside a wall? How does this impact on its performance? Would it perform better if we cound use it the same way at home? What kind of sound would originally be expected to come from this speaker and how does this sound compare to what you are getting at home now? Is it all just getting better or are we also loosing something else?
AFAIK, it was designed not to be placed inside a wall, but behind a cinema screen.
I did not try to place a cinema screen right before it, but in my living room it is around 11cm from the wall and 45cm above the ground and I like the sound AND the look.

Matt
Thank you. I got it wrong about the wall. I do not have room for this speaker but I am going to recommend it to my big brother who is making a cinema in his house! :-)
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Re: JBL 3677

Post by matthias »

beck wrote:Thank you. I got it wrong about the wall. I do not have room for this speaker but I am going to recommend it to my big brother who is making a cinema in his house! :-)
Welcome,

if your brother needs some advice he should contact JAJO from this forum, he is THE expert.
There are also several very helpful infos on the swedish component.se forum, but you have to translate.

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Re: JBL 3677

Post by beck »

matthias wrote:
beck wrote:Thank you. I got it wrong about the wall. I do not have room for this speaker but I am going to recommend it to my big brother who is making a cinema in his house! :-)
Welcome,

if your brother needs some advice he should contact JAJO from this forum, he is THE expert.
There are also several very helpful infos on the swedish component.se forum, but you have to translate.

Matt
Well, translation of swedish is no problem. Being danish and of an age where tv from sweden/norway was the only other channels on tv has helped me a lot. :-)
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Re: JBL 3677

Post by ThomasOK »

matthias wrote:
beck wrote:A very good read indeed stuffed with interesting information (have read it several times). I absolutely agree that it sounds like a very good speaker listening to the clips on this forum.
I only have one nagging question about this speaker: It was made to be placed inside a wall? How does this impact on its performance? Would it perform better if we cound use it the same way at home? What kind of sound would originally be expected to come from this speaker and how does this sound compare to what you are getting at home now? Is it all just getting better or are we also loosing something else?
AFAIK, it was designed not to be placed inside a wall, but behind a cinema screen.
I did not try to place a cinema screen right before it, but in my living room it is around 11cm from the wall and 45cm above the ground and I like the sound AND the look.

Matt
I'm glad you liked it, beck. I hope there aren't too many technical inaccuracies as I am not a speaker designer. I just started reading articles here and there about different speakers and speaker design and tried to see how it related to the JBLs. I found it very interesting to read some of the articles on things like wide baffles and constant directivity speakers.

My understanding as well was not that it was designed to be flush with the wall, like many studio monitors that are made to be soffit mounted, but was designed to be bolted to the wall behind the screen. There is even a hole on the top (that comes with a plug in it) for some kind of mounting apparatus. It seems most of us are mounting them from around 4.5" to 5.5" from the back wall. Although a screen is not needed in front of them, we have noted that they sound very good behind Jajo's screen and behind my grilles. So they can be used with or without. Mine are currently grill-less until I find a better way of attaching them so they don't have the tendency to fall off! On top of which I will at some point make a new set of grills that have the woofer holes cut properly (in order to center the grill and accommodate the one lower woofer) and incorporate additional improvements.
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Re: JBL 3677

Post by sunbeamgls »

Thank you for your long and in-depth post ThomasOK, a good read. Lots of possible explanations in there that sound very plausible. Thanks for sharing your research.

One of the other manufacturers that prefer wide baffles is Audio Note, FYI.

I see that Icon Audio (traditionally a valve amp manufacturer which has moved into speakers in the last couple of years) is launching something that looks very much in a similar vein to the JBL. - Unfortunately no images on line, I saw them in the Icon Audio advert in a recent issue of a magzine (Hifi World, I think).
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Re: JBL 3677

Post by ThomasOK »

I did forget to mention the AudioNote units. I believe their speakers are actually based on old designs by Snell Acoustics that they licensed and updated. The Icon sound interesting, to bad there doesn't appear to be any info on them online.

Even worse is that I also forgot Snell. Their Type A/III was one of the better speakers I sold in the late 70s/early 80s - easily better than Dahlquist DQ10s (also a wide speaker) but a fair bit short of Isobariks. It was also between the two in price. The last version of Snells' first speaker stood 47" tall by 24" wide by 13" deep and was designed to be placed against a wall. It had a curved front baffle for the mid and highs and a downward facing woofer loaded to the floor. Still considered a classic by some.
Last edited by ThomasOK on 2017-02-27 23:58, edited 1 time in total.
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sunbeamgls
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Re: JBL 3677

Post by sunbeamgls »

Here's the Icon Audio 15" with horn tweeter. Its from the Bristol hifi show posted on their Facebook page.

Looks like they might benefit from a visit by Linnofil ;)

I heard they're 10,000 gbp

Image
Last edited by sunbeamgls on 2017-02-28 11:28, edited 1 time in total.
KSH/0; KEBox/2; 3x Tundra Stereo 2.5; PMC fact.12. Blogger. Exakt Design. SO measuring.
matthias
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Re: JBL 3677

Post by matthias »

sunbeamgls wrote:Here's the Icon Audio 15" with horn tweeter. Its from the Bristol hifi show posted on their Facebook page.
Looks like they might benefit from a visit by Linnofil ;)
I heard they're 10,000 gbp
Image
https://mobile.twitter.com/iconAudioLtd ... 49/photo/1

In their price range the 3677s are without competition.

Matt
Matt

MBP / Exposure pre + power (both modified) / JBL3677
sunbeamgls
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Re: JBL 3677

Post by sunbeamgls »

matthias wrote:
sunbeamgls wrote:Here's the Icon Audio 15" with horn tweeter. Its from the Bristol hifi show posted on their Facebook page.
Looks like they might benefit from a visit by Linnofil ;)
I heard they're 10,000 gbp
Image
https://mobile.twitter.com/iconAudioLtd ... 49/photo/1

In their price range the 3677s are without competition.

Matt
IYHO etc... ;)
KSH/0; KEBox/2; 3x Tundra Stereo 2.5; PMC fact.12. Blogger. Exakt Design. SO measuring.
matthias
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Re: JBL 3677

Post by matthias »

sunbeamgls wrote:
matthias wrote:In their price range the 3677s are without competition.
IYHO etc... ;)
Yes, and IHO of other 3677s owners as well.

Matt
Matt

MBP / Exposure pre + power (both modified) / JBL3677
sunbeamgls
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Re: JBL 3677

Post by sunbeamgls »

matthias wrote:
sunbeamgls wrote:
matthias wrote:In their price range the 3677s are without competition.
IYHO etc... ;)
Yes, and IHO of other 3677s owners as well.

Matt
Of course!
KSH/0; KEBox/2; 3x Tundra Stereo 2.5; PMC fact.12. Blogger. Exakt Design. SO measuring.
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