Charlie1 wrote:Linnofil wrote:So the Majik is good and I don't think it's going to be bettered by a cheap headphone amp. But with the Line Receiver you go from good to a lot better!
This is how the setup would look in your case. The Majik Kontrol is set to driver in the user setting and a Basik IR RCU + Linn remote is used to control the system and the volume for the headphones.
http://forum.selleri.de/download.php?id=683
Only 4 years later to check this out, but can anyone explain in a bit more detail how Linnofil is suggesting the Knekt be user, as the link no longer works. Can I do this direct from the second set of Linto outputs? Also note that I am now using the Kikkin, so no KK.
I am using an old Kenwood tape deck at the moment, so am considering either the Rega Ear for about £150, but would look at some old Linn kit if it wasn't too expensive.
Only then will I look at some better headphones than the AKG K24P's, but if anyone has made any progress in subsequent years, reference finding more tuneful headphones (preferably with better sound and comfort), then would be great to get your feedback.
First of all, I'm sorry this reply is so late. I did write a long and very detailed reply on my iPhone and then got a phone call... The reply went into cyberspace and my very stressed mind couldn't handle it at the time. Very annoying! Well, back on topic.
My old tip was to use a Linn Knekt Line Receiver (with a RCU) as a headphone amp. It's not that expensive (eBay) and pretty good value. This is if you buy the first (single room) variant, the "Knekt Line Receiver". Do not buy the Line Receiver 2 (with subzone for another room) for this application as its headphone output is not (at all) as good as for the regular Line Receiver.
When there is a Line Driver (separate or integrated as in many older Linn products) in the system this solution can be (with the correct cable) placed anywhere in the home as this is a Knekt room solution, only without a power amp and speakers. When it's used as in Charlie's system it's only possible to place close to the main system as one of the local unbalanced (RCA) inputs are used (3 available, check for the best one, as usual). The Knekt input is balanced with a RJ45 connector.
In a simple application as this I would recommend the simple Basik IR RCU as this doesn't require any programming. It has a small jumper that is used for setting it up for the Line Receiver. With this RCU all control except on/off and volume +/- has to be done with a standard Linn remote. A normal Knekt RCU may actually cost just as much on eBay, or even be cheaper! But the normal Knekt RCU is trickier to set up.
Setting up this system is pretty simple. A 18 VAC power supply (usually included in the Line Receiver) is connected to the Line Receiver. The RCU is connected to the RCU connector on the Line Receiver with a special Cat5 cable terminated with RJ45 connectors*. The second Linto output is then connected to one of the Line receiver local inputs. The headphones are connected to the headphone output on the Line Receiver. All connectors are connected at the back of the Line Receiver.
Done!
As a replacement for the picture in the broken link I can present this very visual ASCII image:
18VAC PS == =>
Basik IR RCU==> Line Receiver => AKG Headphones => Ears/brain
Linto output =>
This setup can also be used as a backup preamp (3 line level inputs, one preamp output) with a pretty usable level of quality. A cheap solution for a Linn preamp/headphone amp in my opinion. I hope this made sense.
*
The Knekt cable looks just like a standard network cable, but doesn't have the same pinning. All Knekt cables are twisted (from driver to receiver and from receiver to RCU, the same cables can be used).
Connect like this:
First connector:
Pin 1 (blue/white) and 4 (blue) are a (remote control) pair
Pin 2 (orange/white) and 3 (orange) are a (audio) pair
Pin 5 (green) and 8 (green/white) are a (audio) pair
Pin 6 (brown) and 7 (brown/white) are a (remote control) pair
The other end:
Pin 1 (green/white) and 8 (blue/white) are swapped
Pin 2 (brown/white) and 7 (orange/white) are swapped
Pin 3 (brown) and 6 (orange) are swapped
Pin 4 (green) and 7 (blue) are swapped