The essential message is short:
Avoid using the subchassis as a tool (as is done when following the Linn installation instruction).
Use a 21 mm socket instead to counteract the force when tightening the upper screw by 3.5 Nm with the 20 mm socket.
The mechenical reasoning is evident, so not many words about it.

A few weeks ago I installed the Karousel (after it had been sitting around for a couple of years). Certain advantages were obvious, but the musical flow and the 'playing together' of the Jazz combos were not satisfying, whatever I tried and adjusted. Thinking about possible reasons I finally loosened the bearing again, positioned the bolts of the Karousel nicely and loosely within the 3 holes of the Keel, and re-tightened the bearing by the above mentioned method: The musical flow is intact again.
Great.

This procedure involves no additional work (just the 21 mm socket is needed as a plus), and it can be done with just the inner platter removed if the bearing is already installed. Have a try!

P.S.: Of course, I'm amazed about the improved quality of the springs. It took a long time......

Hello k_numigl!

So what you are saying is that the Karousel should be sitting with its three “pegs” in the middle of the holes in the Keel? And not pressing against the edges of those holes?

Yes, thanks for the 'translation'.

I doubt we can control it to this presumably perfect state, but to avoid the excessive tangential force is obviously already beneficial. (With the 3 screws of the previous bearings this problem did not exist.)

k_numigl wrote: ↑2024-01-03 19:01 Certain advantages were obvious, but the musical flow and the 'playing together' of the Jazz combos were not satisfying,

Great description of my difficulties with it.

Hopefully you have unlocked something. Looking forward to seeing if it also settles Fredrik's misgivings.

Wouldn't that effect the torque on the thrust pad cap!

Interesting detail and I'm sure I didn't pay attention to it. If the lower cap is tightened first, there should be no problems fixing the upper cap with the appropriate torque after centering.

Is there a link to the setup guide for the Karousel?

Some of this is probably posted in other threads, but you can find some information here

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5085&hilit=Karousel

deleted

Hermann wrote: ↑2024-01-09 09:59 Interesting detail and I'm sure I didn't pay attention to it. If the lower cap is tightened first, there should be no problems fixing the upper cap with the appropriate torque after centering.

Not sure about this. Tom has given specific torque settings for both the top and bottom nuts. Holding one while tightening the othe is likely to change the one held.

This will hardly be the case, as the lower one experiences a significantly higher torque than the upper one. The lower one can be held safely with a wrench etc., while the upper one can be tightened with significantly less effort. Slipping of the three knobs should be impossible.

Anyway, I will test this soon.

Tom O'keef's torque recommendations for the Karousel bearing cap is 2.4+Nm. The top nut for the Karousel is 3.4Nm. Using the approach recommended by the OP, the bottom cap will tighten to 3.4Nm as the top nut is tightened to this spec. No getting around that. Maybe that's why things sound different?

2.4 NM was Tom´s old recomendation for the bottom cap. The newest is 7.0 NM, so much more than the 3.4 or 3.5 NM for the upper nut.

viewtopic.php?p=65382#p65382

I followed k_numigl recomendation, and i have to say it is worth trying. The "playing together" improves.
Sad nobody else poited this out before, as i have been listening to my karouseled LP12 for some time now.

I suppose it will improve things more or less depending on how stressed the pins were before the tweak.

marcel

Hermann wrote: ↑2024-01-09 11:34 Some of this is probably posted in other threads, but you can find some information here

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5085&hilit=Karousel

I meant an official Linn setup guide. That thread put me off the whole idea of getting a Karousel.

John, send you PM